Author: FixYourDLP.com
Samsung DLP Lamp Compatibility Reference
Wednesday, February 21st, 2007 @ 2:16 pm
Samsung has a lot of DLP customers confused…here is a little background:
Samsung originally used Toshiba as their UHP Lamp supplier. Samsung went through a few production runs and then made the decision to switch to Philips UHP Lamps. Why they made the switch is speculation…Higher quality? Better reputation? Better pricing? Who knows! One thing that is clear: Philips is the innovator of UHP lamps. They are also leaders in R&D in this growing technology. Samsung did it’s homework and went with the leader in the industry (good job Samsung)!
So Samsung originally came out with BP96-00224A which was a Toshiba Lamp. This was later replaced with the BP96-00224C which was a Philips Lamp. Here is a picture below showing the only physically apparent difference between the lamp enclosures.
Don’t pay too much attention to the shape of the enclosure as there are a few variations of each. More importantly are the connectors and their shapes and colors. The Toshiba connectors are more of a rectangular design and they are BROWN while the Philips lamps have a more rounded connector and are BLACK. Physically the lamps are essentially the same size but they are not interchangeable. I will post another entry showing the differences in the lamps themselves. Here are two pictures of the Samsung lamp:
If you replace a Toshiba lamp with a Philips you will need to change the ballast as well…otherwise you could burn the ballast, lamp, or both!
So which lamp is compatible with which TV?
Wait a minute….there is also a NEWER Design lamp out there!
The newer designed lamp is made by Philips and it is compatible as a replacement for ALL Samsung TVs that use the Philips Lamps. If you have a a "Big" Philips lamp (like the one pictured above), you will need the Philips Lamp Adapter to use the newest "Small" Philips lamps, click here for more information about the adapter. Anyway, here is a picture of the latest model Lamp only:
But this is a much smaller lamp than the one in my TV…are you sure it is compatible?
As UHP Lamp technology evolves, these lamps are going to get smaller and more luminous. These newer lamps are 100W/120W lamps and use the same energy as the older lamps, yet their compact and modern design is another benefit to the extended life Philips claims.
I’m still confused, do you have a simple way for me to distinguish which type of lamp I have and what my replacement options are?
The simple anser is YES, but a YES with an exception. Samsung screwed up big time with the production of their DLPs. I don’t know of any other manufacturer who has gone through so many lamp changes!
First Step: Locate the lamp code on the right side of your TV (right side of the TV as if you are watching TV). Typically there is a RED and WHITE sticker that looks like this:
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The "(P)" in the lamp code stands for Philips. If your lamp code has a "(T)" that means the lamp manufacturer is Toshiba…which also means you have one of the first generation TVs Samsung manufactured! This is a bad thing considering you will need to change your balast if you want to use the more readily available Philips "Big" lamps or the newer Philips "Small" Lamps.
To CLARIFY again, step 1: figure out who manufactured your lamp: Philips or Toshiba.
Step 2: If you have a Philips (P) Lamp, and the lamp code the starts with BP96-00224, then that means you should have a "Big" Philips lamp inside your TV, one of these:
If you have a Philips (P) and the Lamp Code starts with BP96-006, BP96-008, BP96-01, that usually means you have a "Small" Philips lamp, like this:
But we’ve seen cases where this is not true! The safest and recommended way to go about it is to physically remove the lamp enclosure to inspect the lamp. There should also be another Lamp Code sticker on the side of the enclosure…often times this lamp code is different from the lamp code on the outside of the TVs (go figure…)! To avoid problems, take 5 minutes and check the lamp type!
If you have a "Big" Philips lamp, your best bet is to get the Philips Lamp Adapter (PLA) along with one of the new Philips Lamps…the kit is available here for pre-orders! More information on this kit is available here.
If you have a "Small" Philips lamp, your best bet is to purchase an original replacement lamp. OEM lamps are available here. You partner site, Discount-Merchant.com has made it clear that they are the lowest price anywhere for original lamps. If you find a better price, let us know and we will have Discount-Merchant.com beat it 
I have a confusing situation on my hands. I was given an HLN437W that had a burned out lamp.
The tag on the side of the TV says BP96-00224A(T) which would indicate a Toshiba Lamp.
The actual lamp casing (metal part) has a tag that says Philips 100W BP96-00224C on the back. This would say Philips.
The connector however is the connector shown about for the Toshiba lamp.
So I seem to have a Philips lamp and a Toshiba connector.
It does not appear as though the lamp enclosure was disassembled and a different lamp used but I cannot be sure. I was looking for tool marks. Didn’t see any.
I am wondering if
a) Toshiba had a run of lamps with Philps lamps and the old connector. In which case I need a Philips lamp and the ballast is right for Philips.
b) Someone replaced the lamp in the Toshiba enclosure with a Philips lamp. In which case the ballast may or may not have been changed.
I conclude that I need to know what ballast I have in the TV to decide on what lamp I need. I am confident I can change the lamp in the enclosure but I don’t know where to find the ballast.
Where do I find the ballast? Which ballast goes with which lamp? Also how much is the ballast? If I have the Toshiba lamp and ballast I may want to change both to Philips.
Thanks Dave Anderson 408.391.2002
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More data from Dave Anderson
The ballast in the TV is:
HIB Electronic Ballast
Model: LOC-INHB0300U
Input: 220-410v DC
Output: 100-120W
Is this for the Philips or the Toshiba lamp?
Can it be changed to Philips if I want to do so?
dave
[Reply]
Dave,
You got a mess on your hands
But it’s okay…it’s actually not so bad.
a) I think what you meant to ask was if “Samsung” had a production run with Philips Lamps and the Toshiba Connector. To our knowledge, we don’t think so and we’ve never see this.
b) This is a possibility, very common mistake, and it’s very easy to verify. Just dissemble the lamp enclosure; both Toshiba and Philips have their markings on back of their lamps. This could have very easily been overlooked by a tech and diagnosed as a bad Ballast or even a bad Engine.
Dave, I would first try to figure out which lamp you have inside the enclosure. If you have the wrong lamp, the TV may work for a few seconds or a few minutes…or not at all. There is an adjustment in the service menu to lets the bios know which lamp is installed or should be installed (you can flip through Toshiba and Philips) but that wouldn’t do anything for you either. Philips lamp with the Philips Driver (Ballast) and Toshiba Lamp with Toshiba Driver (Ballast) is the only way it’s going to work (we’re not talking about Osram lamps so I’m not going to get into those).
I wouldn’t recommend going out of your way to replace the Ballast unless it was bad. Just get the Toshiba lamp if you need it or vice versa.
Let us know what’s actually in there and we will go from there.
Some part Numbers for your referece:
Philips Ballast: BP47-00008A (100P/H00,100W)
Toshiba Ballast: AA47-00008A (0.33A,100W,370V)
These should be in stock if you need them.
[Reply]
Hey Dave,
I don’t see anything in our database with that part number. My resources with Samsung are limited until the morning, so I will have more information for you then. Can you post a few pictures for reference?
IF you have a Toshiba Ballast, you can always convert it to the Philips setup. In the even that you have an Osram setup, you should be able to use that same ballast for Philips lamps.
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Sorry to have gone silent. I thought I would get the reply by email. I will know to look at this site.
The lamp in the TV is a Philips lamp. I believe it was installed by disassembling the Samsung lamp carrier and putting the Philips lamp in. I conclude that since the connector is the square Toshiba connector.
I suspect I just need a Toshiba lamp but I would like to confirm the ballast.
When you say “Ballast” are you referring to the driver board with the heat sink and grouped power transitors? I was referring to the output transformer on the board when I listed the numbers.
If it is the board, where on the board is the part number? Do I need to remove the board to find the part number? I am ok with that but I never like to touch something that doesn’t have to be touched.
Thanks, dave 408.391.2002
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I just received my lamp for my samsung dlp several days ago. I installed the lamp and it worked for a day. Now it’s not working again. It’s not the same error message (not the face) It just flashes the power red line and the green rightside lamp light? Do you have ideas? Is it a Ballast I need?
I ordered part # bp69-00089b
Karen Aldridge
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No need to reply. I’m good don’t worry about it….. Just have to tighten the screw all the way in when replacing the back plate. Holds the switch down??
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Do the “smaller Lamps” have a longer life span than the “big lamps”? My original OEM lamp just went out, after 2.5 years, and this is my first endeavour with replacements. The $144 price is for the lamp and adapter correct?
Thanks in advance for the info.
Michael
Samsung Model# HLP4674
[Reply]
Hi Michael,
Yes, the smaller lamps for supposed to have long life as they are a newer, revised lamp. The small rectangular lamps are used in all new Samsung DLP models today. $144 is the price for the new lamp + Adapter!
Here is a link to your particular TV:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung-HLP4674W-OEM-Replacement-LAMP-BULB-p/samsung-hlp4674w-lamp-oem.htm&Click=1466
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Karen,
If you do not screw in your lamp in tight, the connectors will not make contact, hence, you will continuing seeing the blinking lights.
1) the lamp NEEDS to be screwed in tightly
2) the enclosure COVER needs to be placed back on the TV and screwed back on. On the Samsungs, there’s usually a sensor associated with the enclosure door.
I’m glad you were able to troubleshoot your issue yourself!
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Dave,
The driver/ballast is the that PCB your square connector is attached to. Most likely you will have to remove it to find the model number. Feel free to post a picture online for review.
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WOW! Damn these guys ship those lamps out fast! I just got off the phone with them and the darn thing is already here… Only $145 too.
Thanks for the link guys.. I’m highly satisfied with the service and the product discount-merchant.com!
I would recommend you guys to anyone that’s serious about getting there TV back up soon.
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Jason,
Usually http://www.Discount-Merchant.com/?Click=1466 ships the same day orders processed before 2 PM PST.
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My DLP TV Lamp has gone bad. The code is BP96-01472A (P132W) does that mean the bulb or the whole housing?
Pam
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Hi Pam,
The BP96-01472A lamp enclosure features a Philips 132 Watt Lamp. Discount-Merchant.com has these avaialble at a great price. They have both the lamp and enclosure, or if you’ll like to save $10, you can just purchase the lamp from them..
just the lamp:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung-Lamp-Code-BP96-01472A-Replacement-Lamp-p/samsung-bp96-01472a_lamp_oem.htm
the lamp plus enclosure:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung-Lamp-Code-BP96-01472A-Replacement-Lamp-p/samsung-bp96-01472a_lamp_enc.htm
Their phone number is: 619-710-2637 x203 just in case..
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I HAVE A RCA HD50LPW175XY1 TV.I STALLED THE NEW LAMP
IT DOEST’N WORK AND PUT IT BACK SEVERAL TIMES,I THOUG IT COULD BE THE LAMP BALLAST,SO I BUYED TOO.
MY TV DOEST’N ANYWAY!!!!! CAN YOU HELP MY?
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Hello there,
Finally some good info on the Samsung DLP players (better than from Samsung!). Here’s my situation - hoping you can help:
My HLN617 outside lamp code is BP96-0024B (O) - it’s a green label - while the label on the lamp is OSRAM 120W P96-00224B. The lamp connector looks like the older Toshiba, but I’m hoping it’s the Philips. How would I find out which ballast this third party works with?
Thanks
[Reply]
Dario,
You’ve got a Osram lamp…Discount-Merchant.com has the replacement OSRAM lamp for you. Call them at: 619-710-2637 x207 and explain your situation. I think you can actually replace your OSRAM with a Philips without any problems…double check your lamp and look for a 1.0 or 1.3 after the 100w/120w on the lamp.
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Guillermo, a common mistake people make is they forget to put the back cover back on their TV. The cover that gives you access to the lamp enclosure usually has a sensor associated with it. If this cover is not on, you’ll still get the blinking error…
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I have a Samsung HL-R5067W that has a lamp code BP96-01073A(P) on the TV and lamp box. The bulb itself had what looks like (hard to read) UHP 100W/120W 1.0 Phillips and 000000875 stamped on it. We ordered a new bulb that had BP96-001073A as the part number, but the actual bulb looks like (again hard to read) it has OSRAM PVP 100-120OE22 stamped on it. Is the correct bulb for our TV. Nothing happened when this bulb was put into the TV and we still have all 3 lights flashing on the TV with no picture and all the screws have been put back in tight. If this is the correct bulb what else should we check?
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I have a samsung dlp hln4365w. How do I know if the ballast is bad?
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Replaced my lamp which was broke and it still does not turn on. Not sure where to go from here.
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Hello,
I have noticed a difference in the brightness of my Samsung HL-R5677W. I had to go up a little on the brightness adjustment. My question is, can the bulb still work and not be putting out optimum lumens or brightness?
Also my engine was replaced last year, is it a possibility that the engine it was replaced with is using a toshiba bulb, my tag indicates a Philips bulb. Is the ballast and engine an all in one replacement?
Thank You,
Mark
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I have a HLN507WX DLP set, and the lamp has gone out. Checking the lamp, I found that it is a Toshiba lamp. Are these bulbs available?
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I’m replacing the bulb in my Samsung HLR6168WX/XAA with the Philips BP96-01073A replacement bulb which I will order from Discount Merchant. The documentation indicates that this replacement bulb is 120W/132W. The Philips bulb I took out of my TV says UHP 100W/120W on it. This seems like a good thing to me since I always thought my TV was a little dim. Is the replacement bulb actually brighter or do I have it all wrong?
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I would like to mention that the first generation HLM507WX Samy’s don’t except the BP47-00008A ballast. The smaller of the 2 plugs is originaly a 5 wire while the newer replacment ballast has a 3 wire plug. If your suppose to replace the ballast with a newer one which one is a direct replacement??
Steve
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Help! The lamp code says BP96-00826A (P). Does this mean I need a small phillips lamp? I really need to order one today. Thanks
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Dear fix your DLP folks:
I have an HLN617WX with 5040 hours on the bulb and everything still working.
the bulb that is in there is a: BP96-00224E(P)
My questions are:
1- will the bulb deminish in brightness with age (hours of use)?
2- is there realtime experience with bulb life?
3- is this original bulb the larger style?
4- has the life expectancy gotten better with this older style bulb?
Any help would be gratly appreciated
Thanks
Joe
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Question: Have HLN437W/XAA with older EUC100 ballast and old large phillips BP96-00224C(p) bulb. Is there any possibilities to upgrade ballast to EUC120 to then take advantage of P132W+adaptor over P120W+adaptor ?
Thx
Fields
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CAN anyone tell me what the ballast does, just changed the bulb a month ago.took out a philips and put in an after market ormans? bulb.Of couse i found this site after i replaced the bulb. now the tv comes on and then shuts off and the timer light and lamp light and the stand by light come on I have a samsung HLP5063w 50″ Please Help if you can.
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Hi, I replaced the Philips lamp (BP96-00224E(P) - 120W) on my Samsung TV (model #HLN617WX/XAA) - thanks to all the helpful instructions on this blog.
The replacement lamp is rated 120/132W, but my TV is not as bright as it used to be and it is not watchable in the day time:(
Any suggestions on what might be wrong?
Thanks in advance.
[Reply]
Mohan,
Sounds like either:
1) You’re ballast is tired…and time to replace it
or
2) You’ve somehow got a 100W ballast in your TV. Do you know where your ballast is and how to check for the wattage?
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HJ,
Unfortunately looks like you’ve got the wrong lamp
Your original lamp was a Philips, and I’m almost certain that you have a BP96-00608A, BP96-00826A, or BP96-00837A enclosure. If so, you’re also going to want to purchase the new Philips 120W+Adapter kit as the best replacement option. Get it here:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=NEW%5FPHILIPS%5FPLUS%5FPLA%5F120W&Click=1466
I would be very suspect of other lamp manufactures…Your Samsung was engineered with the help of Philips…and together they created a specific lamp and specific lamp driver, known as the ballast. If you change one of these crucial parts for an aftermarket part, you will compromised reliability and picture quality of your TV Set!
[Reply]
Fields,
You’re better off staying with the P120W+Adapter. There is no easy way of converting your TV to accept the 132W lamp. You could swap out your ballast for a newer 132W version, but then your power supply is going to have to be replaced also. Your current power supply is not capable of producing enough “juice” for the new lamp.
[Reply]
Hi Joe,
My comments are inline.
>I have an HLN617WX with 5040 hours on the bulb and everything still
>working.
>the bulb that is in there is a: BP96-00224E(P)
It’s good that you’re thinking about a replacement lamp…5,000 hours is the average life span of the older, bigger, lamp.
>My questions are:
>1- will the bulb deminish in brightness with age (hours of use)?
Absolutely, these bulbs go out usually in one of two ways:
1) they blow up, usually imploding
2) The die slowly…and gradually…the picture might dim, it might take longer for the TV to turn on, and your TV might turn off by itself.
>2- is there realtime experience with bulb life?
Bulb life varies greatly…We’ve seen TVs with over 25,000 hours…on the other end, we’ve seen TVs with as little as 2,000 hours. There are a lot of factors at stake. Read this for more information.
http://fixyourdlp.com/blog/2007/04/07/how-to-extend-the-life-of-your-dlp-lcos-sxrd-hd-ila-or-lcd-tv-lamp-intuitive-guide/
>3- is this original bulb the larger style?
I would not suggest the original big style lamp. The newer, small lamps are rated to last longer. They are ventilated, etc…there are a number advantages that’s been talked about repeatedly on this site. Read the following:
http://fixyourdlp.com/blog/2007/03/17/philips-lamp-adapter-pla-for-all-those-older-tvs/
http://fixyourdlp.com/blog/2007/04/10/universal-lamp-adapter-pla-is-here/
http://fixyourdlp.com/blog/2007/02/21/samsung-dlp-lamp-compatibility-reference/
>4- has the life expectancy gotten better with this older style bulb?
Life expectancy has improved with better burners (or filaments), etc, etc…again, read the articles above!
>Any help would be gratly appreciated
>Thanks
>Joe
No problem, Joe, let us know how things work out!
[Reply]
Mark, sorry for the late reply.
If your Light Engine (LE) was replaced, 99% of the time it comes with the matching lamp and lamp driver as a complete unit…you should be fine in that aspect. So if it says Philips, you should have philips compatible parts all throughout.
RE: Brightness
Yes, the picture (brightness) will diminish with time, that is the nature of the DLP lamps. From my experience, the first 500 hours are a little excessive in brightness, and as the lamp burns in, the output goes to the rated wattage. At about 4,000-5,000, or just below the mean average life span of your particular lamp, they tend to start deteriorating. This is part of the design and function of the UHP lamps.
My suggestion to you and anyone else worried about lamp life…have a spare one on hand, you never know when these things are going to give up on you!
[Reply]
Steve,
This is the part you’re looking for
http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung-BP96-00224J-OEM-Replacement-LAMP-BULB-p/samsung-hln507wx-lamp-oem.htm&Click=1466
>Steve Young Says:
>November 7th, 2007 at 3:51 am
>
>I have a HLN507WX DLP set, and the lamp has gone out. Checking the
>lamp, I found that it is a Toshiba lamp. Are these bulbs available?
[Reply]
Tom, that is true…the newer bulb is going to be a better bulb for you
>Tom Bakken Says:
>November 23rd, 2007 at 10:03 am
>
>I’m replacing the bulb in my Samsung HLR6168WX/XAA with the Philips
>BP96-01073A replacement bulb which I will order from Discount Merchant.
>The documentation indicates that this replacement bulb is 120W/132W.
>The Philips bulb I took out of my TV says UHP 100W/120W on it. This
>seems like a good thing to me since I always thought my TV was a little
>dim. Is the replacement bulb actually brighter or do I have it all
>wrong?
[Reply]
Lori,
Samsung really screwed up with their lamps codes…you really cannot tell if you need the smaller square lamp or the bigger round lamp by just the enclosure number in this case.
To better explain the situation, it’s best if you read the following link:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung-BP96-00608A-OEM-Replacement-LAMP-BULB-BP-p/samsung-bp96-00608a-lamp-oem.htm&Click=1466
Essentially, for your particular enclosure (the BP96-00608A, BP96-00826A, BP96-00837A), both big and small lamps were utilized. the only real way to know which one you have is my removing your old enclosure and physically checking.
>Help! The lamp code says BP96-00826A (P). Does this mean I need a small
>phillips lamp? I really need to order one today. Thanks
[Reply]
I have a Samsung That when you turn it on some times the lamp comes on and some times it does not… The Lamp in it is a BP96-00608A large round one. The replacement lamp they sent me is a small BP96-00826A, But the enclosure it came in doese not fit in the TV.
I can put the new little light in the old case useing an adapter.
But I need to know what Ballast I have (eather 100W or 120W)
Where Do I find the ballast to to get this info?
Is it in the TV where you remove the lamp or some where else???
Thanks for any help
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I have a HL-P6163wx and over the past few weeks has been turning on very slowly…usually takes several tries. Then it just stopped completely and so I replaced the lamp. This did not do the trick and now I don’t know if it is the ballast or the colorwheel. How do I determine that? There was no odd sounds like I am hearing with a bad colorwheel and I did have the colorwheel replaced a couple years ago. Please help don’t know which one I should replace.
[Reply]
Hello,
I have a HLN617W tv and need a new bulb. But i have a story…
about 7 months ago i purchased a replacement (BP96-00224A(T)) and when it came in, it was the wrong connector.. so i changed out the connector after being advised to by the tech i spoke from the place of order… (not you guys)… i put the lamp in, and everything has worked fine since…
well, yesterday, the tv suddenly went very dark and while there is a picture, its too dark to really see. I started trying to find a replacement and i am very confused.. looking at the lamp housing that i just removed from my tv, and comparing it to pictures i have the BLACK, round-ish connection so i think that means i have Philips Lamp Enclosure…
I went to the samsungparts.com and if i go by the pictures, i need a BP96-00224j but if i use thier chart based on manufacture date i need the BP96-00224B… but the picture for the 224B has the brown, rectangular design..
I can not find the bulb and housing that first came with my tv… im sure it got thrown out, so i dont have the lamp code from the original housing any more…
can you help me at all..? here is some info:
Model : HLN617W
SVC Model: HLN617W WX/XAA
Manufacter : Mexico April 2003
Lamp enclose that works in unit has the black, rounded connector
[Reply]
I recently acquired a Samsung HL-P5063W which I am trying to repair. The case states it needs a BP96-00608A(P) bulb, but when I took out the new bulb it stated BP96-00826A(P120W).
By my research these bulbs may not be compatible.
When I turn on the TV i get a flashing LAMP signal, and after about 20 seconds I get a STANDBY/TEMP signal, which just cycles and nothing else turns on.
I think my best bet would be to buy a new ballast, and a new bulb… Can you tell me which ones to buy….
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I have a hl-p5067w which is acting up. The STANDBY/TEMP light stays on long after the set has cooled and the BLACK screen is just grey. The screen is to bright. I am sure that there are codes that will reset the unit to original specs or tell you what is wrong. The unit turns on and off fine. Going to the menu I can’t reset the unit to the darker settings. Any suggestions?
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My TV suddenly went partially dark, picture color lost and there was a flickering from a wheel-like, fan or something. (Very technical analysis, huh?)
I’ve ordered a new bulb, but inspecting this one, I can’t see that it’s burned out.
Is this possibly a ballast problem…and not the lamp?
Thanks!
[Reply]
Color wheel. Not ballast, nor lamp.
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I have a Samsung HLS6187W the unit stoped comming on, the code on the leds in the front of it indicated that the bulb was bad so i bought a new one an original samsung bulb correct bulb code, the unit came on after i powered it back up but the next morning it did not work, i am getting a soft beeping noise from the rear of the unit and the 3 led lights blinking in the front, and it does not power up ,if i pull the plug and and plug it back in, and power it up iw will come on but once it stays off for a long period it will not come on again ,,,,any suggestions
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I’m looking to buy a 46″ Samsung DLP used. Which model do you recommend and can I replace these lamps myself?
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I have a Samsung DLP 42 inch. The tv had been working fine. Then one day i turned it on, and got the famous blinking lights on the front. I ordered a new bulb BP96-01073A (P120W) When i installed it i still got the blinking lights, then i was told it was probably my ballast. So i ordered a ballast off ebay and installed it. I still got the blinking lights. Then i decided to try my old bulb with the new ballast, still nothing. Is it possible my new bulb that i got was just no good from the get go? Please help!
Thanks!
Derek.
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hello, i have a 60″dlp HLN617WX/XAA. I have replaced the lamp with a new correct lamp. the tv worked for a good 10 minutes and then froze with a black and white screen. i could not turn off the tv by any power button after the tv froze, had to unplug. i plugged the tv in again and nothing, no picture or sound. so what i think is wrong is overheating somewhere. there is one fan i can see thru the rear of the tv, but the others fans i cant see. please help..!!thanks
1) is there a sensor that i can cover up, so i can run the tv without any covers in the back to see if all the fans are working?
[Reply]
Hyon, I am having the same problem, what did you or anyone come up with as a fix, did it work and is it still working?
Pete
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My original lamp bp96-00608A blew so I bought the complete new style housing ie BP96-00826A (not just the bulb). After installing this new housing it does not work, are there other differences except the size of the bulbs?
Is my understanding correct that if I get an adaptor, install the new bulb in the old housing this will work?
What do I need to do now to get my new purchase to work?
Pat
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Hello all great site!. I have an HLP5063 with an outside lamp code BP96-00608A(P). I haven’t pulled the lamp yet to examine unit; I confirm that this is normal. The set was on I left the room and came back in the picture was flickering and making a sound like a vibration. I shut the unit off and after a while it finally powered itself down. I then powered it back up after 15 mins and it now makes that vibration sound and I get no pictures the lamp ligth flashing on the front. When it’s powered down I get all three lights flashing. Is it the lamp or something more serious?
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Hi, Mike
I have the same simptom on my Samsung DLP, There is a sound like vibrating and after 3 attempts of power on, I get the three lights flashing…
Did you get fixed your DLP?
thanks…
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I have a Samsung HLP6163WX/XAA and thought I would change the bulb, suspected some brightness degredation. Lamp code on side of TV is BP96-00608A(P). Turns out the bulb is the larger one. i got a new rplecement bulb with the adapter and installed it correctly, but my colors went insispid and brightness was much lower than the original bulb. I tried every setting, nothing worked so I re-installed the old bulb…. much better!!
So how come a more powerfulll bulb is giving such an inferior color range and brightness. Is there something else I should have done, and can I get one of the old original bulbs instread of the new replacement with adapter?
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I have a 61″ Samsung DLP TV that I bought approximately 4yrs ago. Recently it has had a problem where after some time watching the screen will go black. The time it takes has varied from ~10 minutes to just over an hour. Turn TV off by pressing the power button then turn it back on with the power button, the picture is upside down. My original thought was the bulb, but looking at the back of the set, the lamp appears to be on while the picture is black, and I haven’t noticed any dimming. The audio works fine while the picture is out, and none of the three front LEDs indicate any issue.
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I have Sumsung hlm507w. When I try to turn it on ,I see a green light comes on for a second or 2 and then I hear a click, light goes off and tv does not turn on at all. I replaced the lamp but it still did not solve the problem. What could be wrong can anyone help?
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Please describe the problem in more detail. Is the clicking noise repetitive? Does it do it 2-3 times, then it gives up? Where did you purchase your lamp from? Are you sure you got the proper bulb? (I hope you purchased a Philips)
If you got your lamp from an authorized distributor, then my next guess is that the ballast has failed, but I need more information.
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Is there a replacment bulb other than the Osram P=VIP 120/1.3 E23 for my 4+ year old Samsung HLM 617W? The current bulb assembly is an Osram 120W BP96-0024B and the Osram bulbs do not last. Is there a Phillips replacement?
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I have a Samsung HLR5067Wax TV.. Well it wouldn’t turn on so I figured that I had to change the bulb. After changing the bulb it still wouldn’t turn on so I figured it must be the ballist, I ordered a new ballist and changed out the old one and my TV still won’t turn on. It comes on for a few seconds and then turns off… Any help would be greatly appreciated….
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By chance, did yuo ever get an answer? My Samsung DLP just went out this evening with the same symptoms you described - only difference is taht my tv hummed.
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