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Hitachi UX21511 LC37 Lamp Housing / Enclosure / Cage / Assembly / Box

Abstract: This guide is to get you more familiar with your Hitachi TV and your replacement lamp options
Keywords: Hitachi UX21511 LC37 Lamp Bulb UHP Housing Replacement Manual Guide Repair Troubleshoot
BODY:

The Hitachi UX21511 Enclosure at first glance is very similar to the Hitachi UX21513, UX21517, UX21518, and other Hitachi enclosures, but it’s different

The Hitachi UX21511 Enclosure uses lamp type LC37. The enclosure is made up of the following pieces:
External Sheet Metal Cage/Housing: part number: NA63991
Internal Sheet Metal: part number: NA72182
Plastic Shell/Cage: NT0455
Clip, holding down the lamp: NA63941

Here are a couple of pictures of the enclosure:

At first glance, this Hitachi enclosure looks similar to other enclosures reviewed on this site, but there are a few minor, but extremely important differences. All in all this enclosure is compatible with at least the following TVs:
50V500
50V500A
50VX500
60V500
60V500A
60VX500

Let us know if we need to edit this blog entry with additional compatible models!

So what’s different about this enclosure?

The rear "pull out" view of the enclosure is shown here. Shown with arrows, we have EX1) and EX2) .

In the picture above, you can see (EX1 ) that no visible hole drilled out on the Hitachi UX21511 Type A, however, on other Hitachi enclosures such as the UX21513 Type B, this area has been drilled out.

In photo3, we’re looking at the area EX2 (opposite side of the enclosure), which has been drilled out and is stamped with an "A"

Now that we’ve identified your Hitachi enclosure, how do we disassemble it?
All our user guides are available at: http://guides.fixyourdlp.com

Ok…but how do I know if my Hitachi Projection LCD TV has a bad lamp? How do I diagnose my TV in general?
Here’s a quick Q&A that might help…

Read everything so far, so where can I get a good deal on a replacement lamp?
If you’re looking for just the bare bulb/lamp, click here:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/Hitachi-UX21511-Projection-LCD-TV-Replacement-LAMP-p/hitachi_lcd_tv_lamp_ux21511.htm&Click=1683

If you’re looking for the complete lamp enclosure (lamp and housing assembly already put together), click here:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/Hitachi-LC37-UX21511-Projection-LCD-TV-LAMP-Bulb-p/hitachi_lc37_ux21511_lamp_enc.htm&&Click=1683

OK, so…I got all that, but where’s my lamp enclosure located??
Click here for lamp replacement instructions from Hitachi’s instruction manual

I’ve been getting a lot of questions about how DLP Televisions work. To answer this question, I’ve decided to draw a little diagram and perhaps this will enlighten some folks out there!

The three things that typically go out on a television are the lamp, the ballast, and the color wheel. You can see the parts above and hopefully by reading our website, you’ll be able to troubleshoot your own DLP television woes. If not, you should call a trained servicer or a service center that handles these kinds of delicate repairs. Changing lamps is one thing, but when you get into the ballast or color wheel, it gets a bit more complicated–I know first hand from working with my dad on DLP TVs.

Stay tuned, and I’ll be posting some YouTube vids of me working on some of the TVs you’ll probably encounter as a servicer/technicial, or maybe you’re just an ordinary person who’s feeling up to the challenge.

I can get my hands on a Sony KDS-R60XBR1 but the picture seems yellowish or greenish. Can anybody say that this is a colour wheel problem or something else in the TV?

I have a Toshiba DLP 52HM84 and just replaced the light engine but a line appeared on the screen but don’t know why.Can you help me out?

I have a 20 month old Samsung HLR5668W that makes an intermittent grinding noise that goes away when I turn off/on the set after a few minutes.

A couple of  weeks ago, except for the left vertical 20% of the screen, the rest became very dark. For the next few days, I turned off/on every time it happened and the picture came back to normal. Then eventually the problem became permanent.  Thinking it was the lamp, I replaced it, but the problem still exists.

Does it sound like the color wheel is bad? The fan perhaps? Something much worse (crossing my fingers)? Please let me know. Thanx in advance.

Tom

Anywhere fron 30 minutes to a few hours later. It just turns off without warning. I called a local repair guy and he said to replace the bulb. Does this sound right? I have the HSL 6187. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I have a Samsung DLP 43″ HD rear projection TV.  The model number is HLN4365WX/XAC.  The bulb in the TV is failing an needs to be replaced.  The product number on it is 100 W Philips BP960024C.  I am confused with what bulb to use as a replacement.  Can you advise what bulb to use and if I can use the new samller bulb with the adapter??

Just received my replacement Philips lamps and DM adapter.
MANY questions!!
The new lamp is VENTED! Great idea - but HOW to orient the vents??
After much thought, I decided to mount the lamp with the vents horizontal. Several reasons: First - - it seems the fan blows side to side. In this orientation, the fan will be most effective to remove heat from the lamp.
Second: When the lamp fails, it seems to self destruct - forming great gobs of glass dust - and probably micro-pellets of mercury. Last thing I want is for that stuff to drip into the bottom of my TV set - - which is what will happen if the vents are vertically oriented.
Finally - - if the vents are vertical, then the heat from the lamp will vent out the top, against the plastic shell. Molten plastic doesn’t smell nice, so I’ll try to avoid that.
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Next Topic: The enclosure currently in my set was made by LTI (I replaced the Philips bulb after 3500 hours - it hadn’t failed yet - but I figured there’s happiness in preventive maintenance). My experience with LTI - - NOT FREAKIN GOOD!!! First bulb failed after 55 hours. They replaced it. Second bulb exploded after 2141 hours (about a year). They won’t fool me again. It’s Philips or eternal darkness.
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I used my new DM Philips bulb to replace the bulb in the LTI housing. It fits OK - in fact, maybe better than in the Philips housing?? !!! The LTI housing centers the bulb using small metal wedges - - seems to work fine - - HOWEVER - - please be aware!! The LTI housing is assembled with TORX screws!! You will need a TORX 10 to remove and reassemble the lamp housing. In addition, the Philips and the LTI lamps use different sized screws on the reflector connection!! DM does NOT include an electrode screw on their replacement lamp - - so you’ll have to figure something out. I used a #6-32 x 3/8″ machine screw, lock washer, and nut to secure the wire. All seems to work fine. In addition, the original Philips lamp had a heat reflector between the lamp and the center electrode (the LTI does not).
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I wore powder and latex-free polybutadiene-acrylonitrile exam gloves to reassemble the lamp in the carrier to prevent finger oils from being left on the reflector/glass housing. I think these are available at most pharmacy “box stores” - like Walgreens, etc.
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Finally - - when my original BP96-00224E Philips lamp finally does blow, it appears that the mounting fixture MAY block the new style lamp vents!!! (DM - - if you monitor this topic, PHOTOS of exactly how to mount your replacement lamp in the HLN617 carrier would be appreciated). I would like a step-by-step walk-through on how to replace the lamp in the original HLN style carrier. If I need to use my Dremmel Mototool to open up vents in the OEM lamp housing, DO let me know!!
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Finally - - and I certainly HOPE this won’t be a problem: I purchased TWO replacement lamps - just to have an extra on-hand. Of course, I didn’t consider until later that the warranty is based on purchase date. Not sure how to handle the unexpected eventuality of the second lamp failing shortly after it’s installation - say 3 years from now.
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Providing that I get reasonable life out of the DM product (no reason to suspect otherwise, as the lamp IS made by Philips), I have nothing but Kudos for the DM product. It works well (at least for the past 2 days), and providing you have the needed tools (typically just a philips screwdriver), and a bit more intelligence than your typical newt, you should be able to save about $100 over the cost of the OEM replacement. Also - - assuming that the vented lamp DOES turn out to be more durable than the OEM for the HLN sets, then we may even get a longevity bonus as well.
.
Merlin

With Samsung perfecting their new LED DLP lamp technology, I’m curious if the’ve given some thought (if it’s even possible) to offer those of us who own their lamp based DLP’s a better (4x longer life) replacement light source. 

Bill 

I purchased a Samsung DLP HLR5678WX in April of ‘06. About a year later the TV failed to operate and the indicator lights on the front of the tv indicated that the lamp was bad. Luckily I had purchased the extended warranty and only had to wait 5 weeks for my new lamp to arrive, yes I said 5 weeks. I replaced the lamp and the the TV worked great for 2 weeks and then blinking lights on the front of the TV indicating, yet again, a bad lamp. Only waited 3 weeks this time for a new lamp, I complained a little about the first wait. Replaced the lamp for the third time and it worked great for a couple of more weeks and then indicator lights again! I then went in and took a look around and removed the bulb and re-inserted it and the TV worked! It continued to work for a couple of days, indicator lights again. Removed the lamp re-inserted the lamp tightened the screw, the set works. This worked for a couple of months but the last time I tried this it didn’t work. I then called Samsung and arranged for a certified tech to come and check out my set, after all you shouldn’t have to get out a screwdriver everytime you want to watch tv right? The tech showed up and said that he thought it was the ballast so he replaced the ballast and the tv worked great for 3 days but then the same problem.

 I am now begining to think that I have 2 spare bulbs and an extra ballast (yes I saved them) and that the problem lies somewhere else. Possibly the switch for the lamp cover?  All connectors on the back seem to be in place. Is there a way to test the switch to see if that’s the problem? Any other ideas? Thanks in advance.