Counterfeit lamps DO exist…and they are presented in a number of different disguises…

1) Generic lamps sold online by a number of venders today should be considered counterfeit when sellers deliberately mislead consumers with claims to “OEM” or “Genuine Original” when in fact the are knock offs. There are many of these generic lamp e-tailers popping up daily…it’s a disease that needs to be stopped! We will show you the questions to ask and how to confirm you are receiving a genuine product!

2) Brand name lamps, marketed and sold, again, as the “original” lamp for your particular TV. Just because an aftermarket lamp has a brand name stamped on it does not qualify it as an original part number for your TV. Your television was engineered with consideration from the ORIGINAL lamp supplier and the TV manufacturer. Engineers from both companies worked hand in hand to fine tune your picture. What does all this mean?

I.E., lets use for example a Samsung DLP TV, model HLS4666W TV. The original lamp part number is BP96-01472A. This part, when purchased directly from Samsung at about $199.99 includes the plastic case (sometimes referred to as the enclosure, assembly, housing, etc.) and the actual lamp. The lamp this TV originally shipped with out of Samsung’s factory was manufactured by Philips. The replacement part number BP96-01472A shipped from the Samsung Parts Factory is also a Philips. There are venders out there that claim to sell the original lamp for your TV at deep discounted prices…this is a sign something is not right.

3) The competition is hot and it’s only heating up higher. Generic companies are trying to figure out ways to gain a piece of the market share and there is nothing they will not consider to get it! As are copies of brand name sunglasses, watches, purses, and so forth, copycats have realized the market potential of replacement lamps (more on this below). What’s stopping a third party lamp manufacture from stamping “Philips” on their lamps and introducing them into the marketplace? Nothing really. Philips doesn’t have a world police as every dock examining every product that’s shipping off international ports. If the clothing industry cannot prevent fraud and copycats I would imagine lamps would have similar problems. All the more reason to purchase lamps from authorized and legitimate distributors, not just a fly-by-night company with the best price working out of their garage importing generic product!

Where do these venders sell?
1- eBay is a common breeding ground…as are fly-by-night brand-spankin’ new ecommerce stores. They claim to ship you original parts at deep discounted prices, often times over $100 less than the manufacturer! For a part that retails less than $200, something is wrong when an e-tailers claims this folks, watch out.

2- Heavy marketers – some of these fly-by-night merchants are investing literally thousands of dollars a day on advertising [to be blunt] their crappy merchandise. And they really do need these advertising campaigns to trick uninformed consumers into their scams. Search for Samsung BP96-01472A lamp, you’ll see a lot of these scammers on paid google search results. These guys are battling out through pricing competitions on a daily basis…ultimately they will lose any credibility if they’ve had any when consumers realize what is going on.

What do these venders sell?
1- More often than not, cheap, generic lamps. These are made by a handful of manufactures, mostly in Taiwan and mainland China. Factories seem to be popping up as these realize the market potential of this industry.
2- Branded lamps – Venders often claims they are selling an Original Equipment Manufacture (OEM) product. While a lamp may be OEM for one product, this does NOT make it an OEM product across the board! I.E., if a Samsung lamp is manufactured by Philips, that does not necessarily mean that a different Sony TV’s OEM lamp is Philips (in this case, both Samsung and Sony depend on Philips as the OEM, but that’s beside the point). There are third party lamp manufacturers that are insisting to sell original lamp by marketing them as OEM. This is a lie and deceitful!

Why do consumers need to be wary of these third-party products?
1- Rear Projection TV’s (RPTVs) were manufactured by collaboration efforts between many different companies. Texas Instruments (TI) was instrumental in creating the DLP Technology and the DLP chip that spawned this revolution of TVs and Projectors. Philips has been a huge part of the movement as the inventor of the UHP lamp technology used across the world today. With these two main partners are the OEM product manufactures, such as Samsung, Sony, Toshiba, Panasonic, etc. It is collaboration through these companies that resulted in RPTV and Front Projection (FT) projectors.

As this is the case, these companies have spent countless hours perfecting their innovations to work together seamlessly. These companies have spent millions upon millions of dollars on Research and Development (R&D) to not only created and perfect their technologies, but to mesh all the this technology together.

When a third-party manufacture enters the marketplace, there are a lot of disadvantages at play…and that is a whole other discussion there…

2- Often times third-party products (including lamps) can VOID your manufacturer’s warranty and lead to premature failure of other components inside your TV set! Your DLP is “driven” or powered on by a “lamp driver” or a “ballast” This ballast has been engineered as the bridge between the TV manufacturer (Samsung for example) and the lamp manufacturer (Philips for example). To ensure proper ignition, continuous voltage, and a healthy long life, the ballast and lamp are matched together.

3- With a generic or third-party lamp, you are committing yourself to buying an inferior product! Spending $5, $10, or $15 extra on an original part versus a generic/third-party should be a no-brainer when you’ve got a lot more to lose than a few bucks! More on this to come, this has already become longer than it should be…

 I have a Samsung DLP TV about 3yrs old HLR-5667W. It was making a high pitch sound so I went and replaced the color wheel which I found had been shattered. After replacing the color wheel and putting everything back again. When I try to turn the TV ON, I can hear the the ticking and the LAMP led blinks about 20 times and then I hear a click and the LAMP blinks green for about 20times and then eventually all 3 lights blink red.

I have since then replaced the DLP bulb as well but not luck.  I can see the 2 fans turning.  However it looks like the lamp is not turning on.  I have looked at the pressure switch as well and its fine.  Does the jumper prevent the TV/lamp from tunring ON?

 Looks like the lamp is not turning on based on what I see from behind TV.  In my opinion I have inserted color wheel as per instructions but could that prevent lamp from not lighting?  Before replacing color wheel, TV was turnign ON fine and only thing was annoying high pitch noise. Any advice on what I need to do now.

My HL-R5678-W has a 4 month old lamp and for the last week it has been just shuting itself off a couple times a day. Now it won’t light up and the “Standby & Lamp” indicators are flashing. Anybody have any ideas?

hi guys .last night my tv gave a loud bang and then the picture went off but i still had sound………….today i have taken the light out of the back and found that the filiment inside has shattered………can anyone tell me if this will be the only damage that has occoured or is it possible that other components are damaged to and maybe my tv is beyond repair………..the tv i hav is a samsung dlp…model number  sp50l7hx

kind regards

Ian

I am looking for a link to the samsung frnt panel indicator lights to determine the problem when the flash. My TV shuts off intermittently and thge lights flsh in a sequence and I need to find out what that sequnce means

Hi everyone,

Here is a link to the video showing the intermittent noise problem I am experiencing with my Samsung HLS-7178 DLP.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=1420583595645736954&hl=en

Descrition of problem:
The noise from the video is consistent (in duration and sound), and it happens every 6 or 7 times the set is powered up.  If it is one of those times it makes the noise at start-up, it also makes a quick “cough” at shut-down (one quick burst of the noise in the video). 

Aside from this noise, the set works/functions perfectly as far as I can tell (even during the times it makes the noise on startup, everything seems fine once the noise stops).  It appears to me that the brightness level/output may be lower when the noise happens, but I cannot be 100% sure of that.  Best Buy had sent out a very poorly trained technician at one point who thought the noise may have been the color wheel, but he disconnected the color wheel and was still able to recreate the sound.  The only way to reliably recreate the sound is to go into the Service Menu and adjust the DB Gain setting - if I do that and jog the value up/down, eventually I hear this same noise.

I think an important thing to note is that there’s no middle-ground on this noise; it either completely makes the exact same noise on start-up, or it starts up/shuts down whisper-quiet.  There’s never just “a little bit” of the noise.

This behavior started after a tech had come to fix an “image flickering” issue in November 2007; at that time, she replaced the ballast and the Dynamic Black Assembly.  The flickering went away, but this intermittent noise began. I contacted Best Buy and got a replacement lamp sent out to me to see if that was the issue, but the noise still happens with the new lamp.

My gut says this is an issue with the Dynamic Black assembly, but I want to be sure it’s that if I get someone to come out and replace it again (I really want to avoid a whole LE replacement, as the set is calibrated).

Any thoughts?

I’ve got a Samsung HLP5063W in service since January 2005 with 10,600 hours on the original lamp (smaller square lamp). About a month ago it started shutting down about 1-2 times a week. It came right back up when turned back on. This week, it’s shutting off every 20-40 minutes. It comes back up instantly when re-powered. All through-out this, the picture has been crystal clear, so I wonder if it is really the lamp that needs to be replaced.

Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks, Bill.

Algunos Proveedores de lamparas y/o bulbos para proyector , le pueden vender la lampara para el reemplazo de su lampara dañada o el portalamparas completo

Si Ud. Tiene un cierto grado tecnico o habilidad manual y es muy cuidadoso entonces reemplazar su lampara es una buena idea.

De lo contrario Lo mejor es comprar el portalamparas nuevo, ya que si se aventura a cambiar la lampara unicamente , puede entrar en un trabajo dificil y causar un daño al portalamparas o a la misma lampara.

Las diferencias de costos entre ambos es minima y el riesgo por daños es mayor.

Comentarios Utiles a saber sobre los bulbos o lamparas para proyector

Se fabrican 2 tipos de bulbos o lamparas:

Bulbos de Halógeno:

Estos tiene un periodo de vida de aproximadamente de 70 Hs.

Durante su periodo de vida-Actividad producen un brillo constante y una imagen amarrillenta.

Su costo es relativamente bajo , desde 40 a 80 Dll’s

Lámparas de haluro de metal UHB (Ultra Alto Brillo):

Su periodo de vida en promedio es de 2000 Hs.

Estas producen una imagen mas blanca y su brillo disminuye lentamente durante su vida-Actividad

Su costo es mayor, desde los 200 a 400 Dll’s

La aplicacion de estas lamparas para proyector las decide el fabricante.

¿Y que hay sobre UHP (Ultra Alto Rendimiento)?

Esta es una tecnologia propia y desarrollada por Philips, que requiere de un menor Voltaje de operacion para las mismas prestaciones de brillo y son de menor tamaño , haciendolas mas confiables al trabajar a menor voltaje… menor temperatura y mayor tiempo de vida , aproximadamente 4000 Hs.

(Sitio, En Ingles con mas detalles sobre esta tecnologia)

Una manera de cuidar y prolongar la vida util de su proyector es utilizarlo en areas bien ventiladas , no obstruir sus areas de ventilacion y limpiar frecuentemente sus filtros de aire , desde luego observar todas las recomendaciones de su manual del usuario.

Dentro de la pagina les presentamos unas fotografias de algunos portalamparas para proyector Hitachi sus probables intercambios y otros datos tecnicos de interes general , esperando les sea de utilidad y de apoyo en alguna compra de Bulbo para proyector .

Checa esta empresa no solo tiene el portalamparas Hitachi , tiene mas lamparas y partes para tu TV DLP Plasma y LCD . Cuentan con servicio de envio directo de Lamparas y partes a tu domicilo y en todas las ciudades del mundo.

http://www.discount-merchant.com/

Yesterday, I noticed that my HLP6163 started flickering a lot with colors totally off. I tried switching video inputs and I kept getting the same thing. So I turned it off, let it sit for about a half hour, and then turned it back on. I got sound but no video as the tv cycled through 3 times automatically of turning it off and on, and on each attempt I could hear the fan (or at least that’s what I think it is) struggle to turn on properly, until finally I got the dreaded 3 blinking lights. I turned it off again, only this time by pulling out the power cord as well. This morning, I plugged it back in, turned it on, and the tv cycled 3 times just like yesterday, but the faint fan noise was now a loud, distinct humm that pitched up and down. I have no idea what’s wrong. I suspect it to be the lamp, but I just got a new one put in on 8/17/07 (BP9600826A from samsungparts.com) and I’ve never heard of this loud humming noise before. From reading the posts, maybe I need to get a new fan or colorwheel as well?