I recently purchased a Samsung OEM BP96-01472A replacement lamp with enclosure from the web store of an unnamed competitor.  I knew something was wrong as soon as I opened the box.  There were two scuff etched into the glass surface of the bulb!  I thought the damage could be purely cosmetic, so I installed it and fired up the set.  Despite 15 minutes of run time the picture was very dim.   The old bulb was much brighter!  Then I realized that might have been had.  I got a banged up used bulb marked or a maybe even a counterfeit!   I then compared the bulbs side by side.  The identification and Philips trademark printed on questionable bulb looks authentic.  The country of origin was listed as China instead of Belgium.   However the reflectors were molded much differently.  The glass around the metal grommet in the reflector were the electrode wire passes through the side of the reflector is countersunk with the Belgian made bulb.   The glass is not countersunk in the Chinese bulb.   The interior edge of the reflector where it meets the two air vents is a simple smooth bevel with the Belgian bulb.  With the Chinese bulb this is done in a much cruder fashon.  There is a deep ridge stamped into the interior of the bulb before it meets the vents.  I have not seen any photos of Philips UHP bulbs made in that manner, even ones bearing the made in China label.   Looking through the bulb, I could more tooling marks in chinese bulb.   It was clearly inferior in construction to the belgian made bulb.

Given the amount of counterfeit products in China, could Philips bulbs now be victim?  Or do I simply have a geniune Philips bulb that is somehow damaged or previously used.  Has there been a major tooling change or cost cutting to account for these differences in construction?

Algunos Proveedores de lamparas y/o bulbos para proyector , le pueden vender la lampara para el reemplazo de su lampara dañada o el portalamparas completo

Si Ud. Tiene un cierto grado tecnico o habilidad manual y es muy cuidadoso entonces reemplazar su lampara es una buena idea.

De lo contrario Lo mejor es comprar el portalamparas nuevo, ya que si se aventura a cambiar la lampara unicamente , puede entrar en un trabajo dificil y causar un daño al portalamparas o a la misma lampara.

Las diferencias de costos entre ambos es minima y el riesgo por daños es mayor.

Comentarios Utiles a saber sobre los bulbos o lamparas para proyector

Se fabrican 2 tipos de bulbos o lamparas:

Bulbos de Halógeno:

Estos tiene un periodo de vida de aproximadamente de 70 Hs.

Durante su periodo de vida-Actividad producen un brillo constante y una imagen amarrillenta.

Su costo es relativamente bajo , desde 40 a 80 Dll’s

Lámparas de haluro de metal UHB (Ultra Alto Brillo):

Su periodo de vida en promedio es de 2000 Hs.

Estas producen una imagen mas blanca y su brillo disminuye lentamente durante su vida-Actividad

Su costo es mayor, desde los 200 a 400 Dll’s

La aplicacion de estas lamparas para proyector las decide el fabricante.

¿Y que hay sobre UHP (Ultra Alto Rendimiento)?

Esta es una tecnologia propia y desarrollada por Philips, que requiere de un menor Voltaje de operacion para las mismas prestaciones de brillo y son de menor tamaño , haciendolas mas confiables al trabajar a menor voltaje… menor temperatura y mayor tiempo de vida , aproximadamente 4000 Hs.

(Sitio, En Ingles con mas detalles sobre esta tecnologia)

Una manera de cuidar y prolongar la vida util de su proyector es utilizarlo en areas bien ventiladas , no obstruir sus areas de ventilacion y limpiar frecuentemente sus filtros de aire , desde luego observar todas las recomendaciones de su manual del usuario.

Dentro de la pagina les presentamos unas fotografias de algunos portalamparas para proyector Hitachi sus probables intercambios y otros datos tecnicos de interes general , esperando les sea de utilidad y de apoyo en alguna compra de Bulbo para proyector .

Checa esta empresa no solo tiene el portalamparas Hitachi , tiene mas lamparas y partes para tu TV DLP Plasma y LCD . Cuentan con servicio de envio directo de Lamparas y partes a tu domicilo y en todas las ciudades del mundo.

http://www.discount-merchant.com/

Some people have been asking about the 90 warranty from the manufacturer when you buy from Discount-Merchant.com. Warranties and guarantees are to help you the consumer decide on what product is the best, and safest choice. If you’re going to drop a few hundred bucks, that product better have a warranty. Retailers know this, so they’ll do anything to make the sale, even warranty for up to 1 year or longer. I’ve talked with Ali from Discount-Merchant.com and he tells me that it’s highly unlikely that Philips lamps will go out within the first year, even the first two years. The failure rate is 3 in 10,000. That means that the lamp you get brand new should work.

And to speak to the point of longevity–well, your mileage may vary. Just like incandescent light bulbs you use for a lamp in your house, or even halogen lamps for the headlights of a truck, DLP and LCD lamps are consumable parts. The more you use them, the chances it will have to fail increases. Anyone who offers a free 1 year warranty is just trying to sell you the product, and most likely, they’re selling generic because it’s cheaper to replace. They also know that so many other things can go wrong with a television and they’ll most likely turn the customer down 11 months down the line, so once they have your money, there’s nothing you can really do. The reason we trust DM is that they’re customer service is excellent. They do stand by their product, and if there are any problems, you can give them a call and they are more than willing to help you troubleshoot. They’d rather help you fix your TV than sell you a lamp (and if fixing your TV involves selling you a lamp they’ll do that too

To end, here’s a quote from one of my favorite movies… Can anyone guess which movie this is?

Tommy: Chicken wings! Let’s think about this for a sec, Ted, why would somebody put a guarantee on a box? Hmmm, very interesting.
Ted Nelson: Go on, I’m listening.
Tommy: Here’s the way I see it, Ted. guy puts a fancy guarantee on a box ’cause he wants you to feel all warm and toasty inside.
Ted Nelson: Yeah, makes a man feel good.
Tommy: ‘Course it does. Why shouldn’t it? Ya figure you put that little box under your pillow at night, the Guarantee Fairy might come by and leave a quarter, am I right, Ted?
Ted Nelson: What’s your point?
Tommy: The point is, how do you know the fairy isn’t a crazy glue sniffer? “Building model airplanes” says the little fairy, well, we’re not buying it. He sneaks into your house once, that’s all it takes. The next thing you know, there’s money missing off the dresser and your daughter’s knocked up, I seen it a hundred times.
Ted Nelson: But why do they put a guarantee on the box?
Tommy: Because they know all they sold ya was a guaranteed piece of ****. That’s all it is, isn’t it? Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time. But for now, for your customer’s sake, for your daughter’s sake, ya might wanna think about buying a quality product from me.

I can get my hands on a Sony KDS-R60XBR1 but the picture seems yellowish or greenish. Can anybody say that this is a colour wheel problem or something else in the TV?

I have a Toshiba DLP 52HM84 and just replaced the light engine but a line appeared on the screen but don’t know why.Can you help me out?

I have a 20 month old Samsung HLR5668W that makes an intermittent grinding noise that goes away when I turn off/on the set after a few minutes.

A couple of  weeks ago, except for the left vertical 20% of the screen, the rest became very dark. For the next few days, I turned off/on every time it happened and the picture came back to normal. Then eventually the problem became permanent.  Thinking it was the lamp, I replaced it, but the problem still exists.

Does it sound like the color wheel is bad? The fan perhaps? Something much worse (crossing my fingers)? Please let me know. Thanx in advance.

Tom

Anywhere fron 30 minutes to a few hours later. It just turns off without warning. I called a local repair guy and he said to replace the bulb. Does this sound right? I have the HSL 6187. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I have a Samsung DLP 43″ HD rear projection TV.  The model number is HLN4365WX/XAC.  The bulb in the TV is failing an needs to be replaced.  The product number on it is 100 W Philips BP960024C.  I am confused with what bulb to use as a replacement.  Can you advise what bulb to use and if I can use the new samller bulb with the adapter??

Just received my replacement Philips lamps and DM adapter.
MANY questions!!
The new lamp is VENTED! Great idea - but HOW to orient the vents??
After much thought, I decided to mount the lamp with the vents horizontal. Several reasons: First - - it seems the fan blows side to side. In this orientation, the fan will be most effective to remove heat from the lamp.
Second: When the lamp fails, it seems to self destruct - forming great gobs of glass dust - and probably micro-pellets of mercury. Last thing I want is for that stuff to drip into the bottom of my TV set - - which is what will happen if the vents are vertically oriented.
Finally - - if the vents are vertical, then the heat from the lamp will vent out the top, against the plastic shell. Molten plastic doesn’t smell nice, so I’ll try to avoid that.
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Next Topic: The enclosure currently in my set was made by LTI (I replaced the Philips bulb after 3500 hours - it hadn’t failed yet - but I figured there’s happiness in preventive maintenance). My experience with LTI - - NOT FREAKIN GOOD!!! First bulb failed after 55 hours. They replaced it. Second bulb exploded after 2141 hours (about a year). They won’t fool me again. It’s Philips or eternal darkness.
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I used my new DM Philips bulb to replace the bulb in the LTI housing. It fits OK - in fact, maybe better than in the Philips housing?? !!! The LTI housing centers the bulb using small metal wedges - - seems to work fine - - HOWEVER - - please be aware!! The LTI housing is assembled with TORX screws!! You will need a TORX 10 to remove and reassemble the lamp housing. In addition, the Philips and the LTI lamps use different sized screws on the reflector connection!! DM does NOT include an electrode screw on their replacement lamp - - so you’ll have to figure something out. I used a #6-32 x 3/8″ machine screw, lock washer, and nut to secure the wire. All seems to work fine. In addition, the original Philips lamp had a heat reflector between the lamp and the center electrode (the LTI does not).
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I wore powder and latex-free polybutadiene-acrylonitrile exam gloves to reassemble the lamp in the carrier to prevent finger oils from being left on the reflector/glass housing. I think these are available at most pharmacy “box stores” - like Walgreens, etc.
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Finally - - when my original BP96-00224E Philips lamp finally does blow, it appears that the mounting fixture MAY block the new style lamp vents!!! (DM - - if you monitor this topic, PHOTOS of exactly how to mount your replacement lamp in the HLN617 carrier would be appreciated). I would like a step-by-step walk-through on how to replace the lamp in the original HLN style carrier. If I need to use my Dremmel Mototool to open up vents in the OEM lamp housing, DO let me know!!
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Finally - - and I certainly HOPE this won’t be a problem: I purchased TWO replacement lamps - just to have an extra on-hand. Of course, I didn’t consider until later that the warranty is based on purchase date. Not sure how to handle the unexpected eventuality of the second lamp failing shortly after it’s installation - say 3 years from now.
.
Providing that I get reasonable life out of the DM product (no reason to suspect otherwise, as the lamp IS made by Philips), I have nothing but Kudos for the DM product. It works well (at least for the past 2 days), and providing you have the needed tools (typically just a philips screwdriver), and a bit more intelligence than your typical newt, you should be able to save about $100 over the cost of the OEM replacement. Also - - assuming that the vented lamp DOES turn out to be more durable than the OEM for the HLN sets, then we may even get a longevity bonus as well.
.
Merlin

With Samsung perfecting their new LED DLP lamp technology, I’m curious if the’ve given some thought (if it’s even possible) to offer those of us who own their lamp based DLP’s a better (4x longer life) replacement light source. 

Bill