DLP Lamp Guide - LCD and DLP Repair Tips - Fix Your DLP - FixYourDLP.com

Algunos Proveedores de lamparas y/o bulbos para proyector , le pueden vender la lampara para el reemplazo de su lampara dañada o el portalamparas completo

Si Ud. Tiene un cierto grado tecnico o habilidad manual y es muy cuidadoso entonces reemplazar su lampara es una buena idea.

De lo contrario Lo mejor es comprar el portalamparas nuevo, ya que si se aventura a cambiar la lampara unicamente , puede entrar en un trabajo dificil y causar un daño al portalamparas o a la misma lampara.

Las diferencias de costos entre ambos es minima y el riesgo por daños es mayor.

Comentarios Utiles a saber sobre los bulbos o lamparas para proyector

Se fabrican 2 tipos de bulbos o lamparas:

Bulbos de Halógeno:

Estos tiene un periodo de vida de aproximadamente de 70 Hs.

Durante su periodo de vida-Actividad producen un brillo constante y una imagen amarrillenta.

Su costo es relativamente bajo , desde 40 a 80 Dll’s

Lámparas de haluro de metal UHB (Ultra Alto Brillo):

Su periodo de vida en promedio es de 2000 Hs.

Estas producen una imagen mas blanca y su brillo disminuye lentamente durante su vida-Actividad

Su costo es mayor, desde los 200 a 400 Dll’s

La aplicacion de estas lamparas para proyector las decide el fabricante.

¿Y que hay sobre UHP (Ultra Alto Rendimiento)?

Esta es una tecnologia propia y desarrollada por Philips, que requiere de un menor Voltaje de operacion para las mismas prestaciones de brillo y son de menor tamaño , haciendolas mas confiables al trabajar a menor voltaje… menor temperatura y mayor tiempo de vida , aproximadamente 4000 Hs.

(Sitio, En Ingles con mas detalles sobre esta tecnologia)

Una manera de cuidar y prolongar la vida util de su proyector es utilizarlo en areas bien ventiladas , no obstruir sus areas de ventilacion y limpiar frecuentemente sus filtros de aire , desde luego observar todas las recomendaciones de su manual del usuario.

Dentro de la pagina les presentamos unas fotografias de algunos portalamparas para proyector Hitachi sus probables intercambios y otros datos tecnicos de interes general , esperando les sea de utilidad y de apoyo en alguna compra de Bulbo para proyector .

Checa esta empresa no solo tiene el portalamparas Hitachi , tiene mas lamparas y partes para tu TV DLP Plasma y LCD . Cuentan con servicio de envio directo de Lamparas y partes a tu domicilo y en todas las ciudades del mundo.

http://www.discount-merchant.com/

Yesterday, I noticed that my HLP6163 started flickering a lot with colors totally off. I tried switching video inputs and I kept getting the same thing. So I turned it off, let it sit for about a half hour, and then turned it back on. I got sound but no video as the tv cycled through 3 times automatically of turning it off and on, and on each attempt I could hear the fan (or at least that’s what I think it is) struggle to turn on properly, until finally I got the dreaded 3 blinking lights. I turned it off again, only this time by pulling out the power cord as well. This morning, I plugged it back in, turned it on, and the tv cycled 3 times just like yesterday, but the faint fan noise was now a loud, distinct humm that pitched up and down. I have no idea what’s wrong. I suspect it to be the lamp, but I just got a new one put in on 8/17/07 (BP9600826A from samsungparts.com) and I’ve never heard of this loud humming noise before. From reading the posts, maybe I need to get a new fan or colorwheel as well?

• I need step-by-step instructions on how to access the lamp fan in my 27-month-old Samsung HLR5067W.  After speaking with Samsung, the loud humming noise I hear when turning on the television is caused by an inoperable fan.  I replaced the lamp two months ago. I ordered both the lamp fan (3 1/4 BP31-00010B) and the DMD Board Cooling Fan (BP31-00011A).  Had no problem replacing the DMD fan; but the lamp fan is behind the lamp and barely visible.  I am hesitant about indiscriminately removing screws to get at the fan.  If anyone knows exactly what I need to do to safely remove and replace the fan, I would really appreciate your help.

Thanks,

DLJ

Just received my replacement Philips lamps and DM adapter.
MANY questions!!
The new lamp is VENTED! Great idea - but HOW to orient the vents??
After much thought, I decided to mount the lamp with the vents horizontal. Several reasons: First - - it seems the fan blows side to side. In this orientation, the fan will be most effective to remove heat from the lamp.
Second: When the lamp fails, it seems to self destruct - forming great gobs of glass dust - and probably micro-pellets of mercury. Last thing I want is for that stuff to drip into the bottom of my TV set - - which is what will happen if the vents are vertically oriented.
Finally - - if the vents are vertical, then the heat from the lamp will vent out the top, against the plastic shell. Molten plastic doesn’t smell nice, so I’ll try to avoid that.
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Next Topic: The enclosure currently in my set was made by LTI (I replaced the Philips bulb after 3500 hours - it hadn’t failed yet - but I figured there’s happiness in preventive maintenance). My experience with LTI - - NOT FREAKIN GOOD!!! First bulb failed after 55 hours. They replaced it. Second bulb exploded after 2141 hours (about a year). They won’t fool me again. It’s Philips or eternal darkness.
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I used my new DM Philips bulb to replace the bulb in the LTI housing. It fits OK - in fact, maybe better than in the Philips housing?? !!! The LTI housing centers the bulb using small metal wedges - - seems to work fine - - HOWEVER - - please be aware!! The LTI housing is assembled with TORX screws!! You will need a TORX 10 to remove and reassemble the lamp housing. In addition, the Philips and the LTI lamps use different sized screws on the reflector connection!! DM does NOT include an electrode screw on their replacement lamp - - so you’ll have to figure something out. I used a #6-32 x 3/8″ machine screw, lock washer, and nut to secure the wire. All seems to work fine. In addition, the original Philips lamp had a heat reflector between the lamp and the center electrode (the LTI does not).
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I wore powder and latex-free polybutadiene-acrylonitrile exam gloves to reassemble the lamp in the carrier to prevent finger oils from being left on the reflector/glass housing. I think these are available at most pharmacy “box stores” - like Walgreens, etc.
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Finally - - when my original BP96-00224E Philips lamp finally does blow, it appears that the mounting fixture MAY block the new style lamp vents!!! (DM - - if you monitor this topic, PHOTOS of exactly how to mount your replacement lamp in the HLN617 carrier would be appreciated). I would like a step-by-step walk-through on how to replace the lamp in the original HLN style carrier. If I need to use my Dremmel Mototool to open up vents in the OEM lamp housing, DO let me know!!
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Finally - - and I certainly HOPE this won’t be a problem: I purchased TWO replacement lamps - just to have an extra on-hand. Of course, I didn’t consider until later that the warranty is based on purchase date. Not sure how to handle the unexpected eventuality of the second lamp failing shortly after it’s installation - say 3 years from now.
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Providing that I get reasonable life out of the DM product (no reason to suspect otherwise, as the lamp IS made by Philips), I have nothing but Kudos for the DM product. It works well (at least for the past 2 days), and providing you have the needed tools (typically just a philips screwdriver), and a bit more intelligence than your typical newt, you should be able to save about $100 over the cost of the OEM replacement. Also - - assuming that the vented lamp DOES turn out to be more durable than the OEM for the HLN sets, then we may even get a longevity bonus as well.
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Merlin

With Samsung perfecting their new LED DLP lamp technology, I’m curious if the’ve given some thought (if it’s even possible) to offer those of us who own their lamp based DLP’s a better (4x longer life) replacement light source. 

Bill 

Question! My picture and sound both went out at the same time on my Samsung HLN437W yesterday, plus I had the 3 blinking lights. I took out the lamp carrier and checked it out and put it back in and picture and sound came back on, but later did the same thing again. It has 16,437 hrs on the orig. bulb and before I order a new one Monday, is it just the bulb or is there more going on then the bulb. I not sure if the sound also goes out when the bulb does?

The lamp code on my tv (Samsung SP50L2HX ) is BP96-00449A(P) and as far as I can see it does not exist amongst any of the lamp codes I have seen on any website. What is the compatible lamp for this tv and how much is it?

One other thing, how to tell a lamp blown from a good one, cos the one I took out looks good as knew to the eye but the tv sure does not work, no picture no audio. Even the tv repair person was not able to say. Any ideas on this?

Thank you.

For the best price & service on an original BP96-01073A Samsung replacement lamp, click here

The Samsung BP96-01073A Enclosure goes by a few different names: BP96-01073A(P120W), BP96-01073A(P), BP9601073A. Here are a few pictures of the enclosure assembly (complete plastic housing and bulb inside):

  Click to enlarge pictures

  BP96-01073A(P120W) P=Philips, 120W=120 Watt Lamp

  From this viewpoint you can see the lamp has a couple of “half circle” vents, one on either side. These are to dissipate heat better and allow the lamp to run cooler

  Here is another angle showing the side vents on the newer generation Philips UHP Lamps

  The connector is the standard philips connector that’s been used exclusively in the last 3 years and all enclosure after the BP96-00224D (which had a rectangular connector)

  At first glance, the lamp appears to be a ROUND bulb, like the older generation ROUND “E23″ form factor lamps. After a more careful inspection, you can tell that the lamp is indeed a square or rectuangular design, it’s identified as a E22 Lamp. Here are a couple of pictures of just the bulb only:

Notice the vents on the sides and the small form factor (E22). The older ROUND BIG Lamp looks like this:

Notice the old lamp is Round and considerably bigger (3.25″ diameter) versus the small square lamp (2.25″ diameter). Despite the size, the smaller form factor is being produced at higher wattages (more luminous).

Now back to the BP96-01073A Enclosure…

There are rare cases where customers have had a Samsung BP96-01073A Enclosure fitted with the older style lamp! This is more prevalent in european and other foreign markets more so than on TVs sold in the US. Regardless, you should be able to easily identify which lamp you have with these pictures. Holding the enclosure at a tilt will exposure the side vents, and looking at the side of the enclosure you should notice a much bigger lamp if you’ve got the older bulb!

For the best price & service on an original BP96-01073A Samsung replacement lamp, click here

In case you have the larger bulb, Discount-Merchant.com sells a kit that will allow you to utilize the new lamp in your current older style enclosure. click here to purchase the Philips Lamp + Adapter Kit:

  http://www.discount-merchant.com/Philips-Lamp-Adapter-Convert-your-your-DLP-p/new_samsung_plus_pla.htm&Click=1683

To purchase a replacement lamp for this TV, click here

Samsung introduces you with its new television product HLS61686W, a widescreen DLP television which brings you an ultimate HDTV occurrence in truly 1280 x 720p resolution. You will definitely enjoy it like live experience. Besides that it has razor sharp picture in dazzling color, contrast and resolution. This is only due to ultra swift DLP and luminous color technology. Width is 55.3”, height is about 38.6” and depth is about 17.6”. DLP chips are manufactured by Texas instruments. It has contrast ratio of about 2500:1 captures blacker black, crisper white images that rupturing into life. HLS61686W is the perfect piece for sports, special effect scenes, gaming just because it’s unparalleled speed of DLP chip, with millions of tiny mirrors that turns on and off over 15000 times per second, gives a exact, razor sharp picture.

Other key features:

1. Slim bezel

2. In-built analog/digital tuner

3. No burn in

4. digital format converter of 1280 x 720

5. 3:2 pull down

6. slide show viewer

7. double HDMI inputs

8. game mode

9. no screen door effect

Samsungs HLS61686W has a digital natural image engine that makes the image sharpest and clearest as possible despite of any kind of input signal it is receiving. The faster color wheel which spins at 14,400 rpm to give a fast5 motion video, has five color segments for more accurateness. Cinema mode allow you to see the colors that director projected, besides that too you can get the color you want to see on screen, so self expression makes the display flawless.

To purchase a replacement lamp for this TV, click here

Do you have a projection TV with a bad lamp? Is the lamp inside your TV a Philips or OSRAM 100W, 1oo/120W, or a 120W lamp? Does it say 1.3 just after the wattage? If so, click here for the lowest price on an original replacement from Discount-Merchant.com

If you have an OSRAM lamp in your TV we highly recommend replacing that lamp with a Philips. It’s no secret Philips is the innovator of Ultra High Pressure (UHP) Mercury Lamps (created in 1995). The quality and dependability of Philips lamps are much greater than OSRAM, or any of the generic brands out there (LTI, APO, etc.. The combination of better “burners” and more advanced drivers (the ballasts) are a few reasons why Philips lamps outlast the competition.

In any case, if your lamp is a 100W, 100/120W, or 120W and looks like the lamps in the pictures below, we recommend purchasing this lamp from Discount-Merchant.com. Post questions and concerns!