I’ve got a Samsung HLP5063W in service since January 2005 with 10,600 hours on the original lamp (smaller square lamp). About a month ago it started shutting down about 1-2 times a week. It came right back up when turned back on. This week, it’s shutting off every 20-40 minutes. It comes back up instantly when re-powered. All through-out this, the picture has been crystal clear, so I wonder if it is really the lamp that needs to be replaced.

Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks, Bill.

You’ve researched all you could about your dead lamp. You’re quite confident you can install it yourself because 10 minutes and 4 screws doesn’t seem to be that hard (it really isn’t). Now all you need to do is find a reputable e-tailer or retailer.

Of course, we here at FixYourDLP.com recommend our site sponsor Discount-Merchant.com for all your DLP and LCD Lamp needs, but finding the right seller for your TV can be an emotional, or time sensitive matter.

Suppose you need the lamp today, maybe there’s some place in town where you can get it. Buying locally is definitely a great way to save time, if not money.

If you’re interested in saving money though, think about where you purchase your product. Take a look at the company website, the policies, and refund procedures. It’s not always the lamp, so you might want to return it should the lamp not be the cause. How much is shipping? Is shipping included? There are a lot of ways to sell a product and a lot of poor companies out there willing to sell you their product. Here are some tips to make sure the company is legit:

1. Does the company have a reputable website?
2. Does the company have full contact information? This must include a phone number and physical address.
3. Does the company offer “free” shipping? Free shipping is great, but you get what you pay for. Most companies that offer free shipping include it in their inflated product price.
4. Does the company have adequate information about the product… including model numbers and literature on how to install or repair?
5. Does the company push you to buy the lamp and not help troubleshoot your television?
6. Does the company offer you an amazing warranty plan? Sometimes when a warranty sounds too good to be true, you’ll end up paying for it.
7. Does the company offer authentic, OEM product?

Take these into consideration before buying online.

Some people have been asking about the 90 warranty from the manufacturer when you buy from Discount-Merchant.com. Warranties and guarantees are to help you the consumer decide on what product is the best, and safest choice. If you’re going to drop a few hundred bucks, that product better have a warranty. Retailers know this, so they’ll do anything to make the sale, even warranty for up to 1 year or longer. I’ve talked with Ali from Discount-Merchant.com and he tells me that it’s highly unlikely that Philips lamps will go out within the first year, even the first two years. The failure rate is 3 in 10,000. That means that the lamp you get brand new should work.

And to speak to the point of longevity–well, your mileage may vary. Just like incandescent light bulbs you use for a lamp in your house, or even halogen lamps for the headlights of a truck, DLP and LCD lamps are consumable parts. The more you use them, the chances it will have to fail increases. Anyone who offers a free 1 year warranty is just trying to sell you the product, and most likely, they’re selling generic because it’s cheaper to replace. They also know that so many other things can go wrong with a television and they’ll most likely turn the customer down 11 months down the line, so once they have your money, there’s nothing you can really do. The reason we trust DM is that they’re customer service is excellent. They do stand by their product, and if there are any problems, you can give them a call and they are more than willing to help you troubleshoot. They’d rather help you fix your TV than sell you a lamp (and if fixing your TV involves selling you a lamp they’ll do that too

To end, here’s a quote from one of my favorite movies… Can anyone guess which movie this is?

Tommy: Chicken wings! Let’s think about this for a sec, Ted, why would somebody put a guarantee on a box? Hmmm, very interesting.
Ted Nelson: Go on, I’m listening.
Tommy: Here’s the way I see it, Ted. guy puts a fancy guarantee on a box ’cause he wants you to feel all warm and toasty inside.
Ted Nelson: Yeah, makes a man feel good.
Tommy: ‘Course it does. Why shouldn’t it? Ya figure you put that little box under your pillow at night, the Guarantee Fairy might come by and leave a quarter, am I right, Ted?
Ted Nelson: What’s your point?
Tommy: The point is, how do you know the fairy isn’t a crazy glue sniffer? “Building model airplanes” says the little fairy, well, we’re not buying it. He sneaks into your house once, that’s all it takes. The next thing you know, there’s money missing off the dresser and your daughter’s knocked up, I seen it a hundred times.
Ted Nelson: But why do they put a guarantee on the box?
Tommy: Because they know all they sold ya was a guaranteed piece of ****. That’s all it is, isn’t it? Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time. But for now, for your customer’s sake, for your daughter’s sake, ya might wanna think about buying a quality product from me.

• I need step-by-step instructions on how to access the lamp fan in my 27-month-old Samsung HLR5067W.  After speaking with Samsung, the loud humming noise I hear when turning on the television is caused by an inoperable fan.  I replaced the lamp two months ago. I ordered both the lamp fan (3 1/4 BP31-00010B) and the DMD Board Cooling Fan (BP31-00011A).  Had no problem replacing the DMD fan; but the lamp fan is behind the lamp and barely visible.  I am hesitant about indiscriminately removing screws to get at the fan.  If anyone knows exactly what I need to do to safely remove and replace the fan, I would really appreciate your help.

Thanks,

DLJ

Hitachi UX21511 LC37 Lamp Housing / Enclosure / Cage / Assembly / Box

Abstract: This guide is to get you more familiar with your Hitachi TV and your replacement lamp options
Keywords: Hitachi UX21511 LC37 Lamp Bulb UHP Housing Replacement Manual Guide Repair Troubleshoot
BODY:

The Hitachi UX21511 Enclosure at first glance is very similar to the Hitachi UX21513, UX21517, UX21518, and other Hitachi enclosures, but it’s different

The Hitachi UX21511 Enclosure uses lamp type LC37. The enclosure is made up of the following pieces:
External Sheet Metal Cage/Housing: part number: NA63991
Internal Sheet Metal: part number: NA72182
Plastic Shell/Cage: NT0455
Clip, holding down the lamp: NA63941

Here are a couple of pictures of the enclosure:

At first glance, this Hitachi enclosure looks similar to other enclosures reviewed on this site, but there are a few minor, but extremely important differences. All in all this enclosure is compatible with at least the following TVs:
50V500
50V500A
50VX500
60V500
60V500A
60VX500

Let us know if we need to edit this blog entry with additional compatible models!

So what’s different about this enclosure?

The rear "pull out" view of the enclosure is shown here. Shown with arrows, we have EX1) and EX2) .

In the picture above, you can see (EX1 ) that no visible hole drilled out on the Hitachi UX21511 Type A, however, on other Hitachi enclosures such as the UX21513 Type B, this area has been drilled out.

In photo3, we’re looking at the area EX2 (opposite side of the enclosure), which has been drilled out and is stamped with an "A"

Now that we’ve identified your Hitachi enclosure, how do we disassemble it?
All our user guides are available at: http://guides.fixyourdlp.com

Ok…but how do I know if my Hitachi Projection LCD TV has a bad lamp? How do I diagnose my TV in general?
Here’s a quick Q&A that might help…

Read everything so far, so where can I get a good deal on a replacement lamp?
If you’re looking for just the bare bulb/lamp, click here:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/Hitachi-UX21511-Projection-LCD-TV-Replacement-LAMP-p/hitachi_lcd_tv_lamp_ux21511.htm&Click=1683

If you’re looking for the complete lamp enclosure (lamp and housing assembly already put together), click here:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/Hitachi-LC37-UX21511-Projection-LCD-TV-LAMP-Bulb-p/hitachi_lc37_ux21511_lamp_enc.htm&&Click=1683

OK, so…I got all that, but where’s my lamp enclosure located??
Click here for lamp replacement instructions from Hitachi’s instruction manual

Just received my replacement Philips lamps and DM adapter.
MANY questions!!
The new lamp is VENTED! Great idea - but HOW to orient the vents??
After much thought, I decided to mount the lamp with the vents horizontal. Several reasons: First - - it seems the fan blows side to side. In this orientation, the fan will be most effective to remove heat from the lamp.
Second: When the lamp fails, it seems to self destruct - forming great gobs of glass dust - and probably micro-pellets of mercury. Last thing I want is for that stuff to drip into the bottom of my TV set - - which is what will happen if the vents are vertically oriented.
Finally - - if the vents are vertical, then the heat from the lamp will vent out the top, against the plastic shell. Molten plastic doesn’t smell nice, so I’ll try to avoid that.
.
Next Topic: The enclosure currently in my set was made by LTI (I replaced the Philips bulb after 3500 hours - it hadn’t failed yet - but I figured there’s happiness in preventive maintenance). My experience with LTI - - NOT FREAKIN GOOD!!! First bulb failed after 55 hours. They replaced it. Second bulb exploded after 2141 hours (about a year). They won’t fool me again. It’s Philips or eternal darkness.
.
I used my new DM Philips bulb to replace the bulb in the LTI housing. It fits OK - in fact, maybe better than in the Philips housing?? !!! The LTI housing centers the bulb using small metal wedges - - seems to work fine - - HOWEVER - - please be aware!! The LTI housing is assembled with TORX screws!! You will need a TORX 10 to remove and reassemble the lamp housing. In addition, the Philips and the LTI lamps use different sized screws on the reflector connection!! DM does NOT include an electrode screw on their replacement lamp - - so you’ll have to figure something out. I used a #6-32 x 3/8″ machine screw, lock washer, and nut to secure the wire. All seems to work fine. In addition, the original Philips lamp had a heat reflector between the lamp and the center electrode (the LTI does not).
.
I wore powder and latex-free polybutadiene-acrylonitrile exam gloves to reassemble the lamp in the carrier to prevent finger oils from being left on the reflector/glass housing. I think these are available at most pharmacy “box stores” - like Walgreens, etc.
.
Finally - - when my original BP96-00224E Philips lamp finally does blow, it appears that the mounting fixture MAY block the new style lamp vents!!! (DM - - if you monitor this topic, PHOTOS of exactly how to mount your replacement lamp in the HLN617 carrier would be appreciated). I would like a step-by-step walk-through on how to replace the lamp in the original HLN style carrier. If I need to use my Dremmel Mototool to open up vents in the OEM lamp housing, DO let me know!!
.
Finally - - and I certainly HOPE this won’t be a problem: I purchased TWO replacement lamps - just to have an extra on-hand. Of course, I didn’t consider until later that the warranty is based on purchase date. Not sure how to handle the unexpected eventuality of the second lamp failing shortly after it’s installation - say 3 years from now.
.
Providing that I get reasonable life out of the DM product (no reason to suspect otherwise, as the lamp IS made by Philips), I have nothing but Kudos for the DM product. It works well (at least for the past 2 days), and providing you have the needed tools (typically just a philips screwdriver), and a bit more intelligence than your typical newt, you should be able to save about $100 over the cost of the OEM replacement. Also - - assuming that the vented lamp DOES turn out to be more durable than the OEM for the HLN sets, then we may even get a longevity bonus as well.
.
Merlin

With Samsung perfecting their new LED DLP lamp technology, I’m curious if the’ve given some thought (if it’s even possible) to offer those of us who own their lamp based DLP’s a better (4x longer life) replacement light source. 

Bill 

Question! My picture and sound both went out at the same time on my Samsung HLN437W yesterday, plus I had the 3 blinking lights. I took out the lamp carrier and checked it out and put it back in and picture and sound came back on, but later did the same thing again. It has 16,437 hrs on the orig. bulb and before I order a new one Monday, is it just the bulb or is there more going on then the bulb. I not sure if the sound also goes out when the bulb does?

For the best price & service on an original BP96-01073A Samsung replacement lamp, click here

The Samsung BP96-01073A Enclosure goes by a few different names: BP96-01073A(P120W), BP96-01073A(P), BP9601073A. Here are a few pictures of the enclosure assembly (complete plastic housing and bulb inside):

  Click to enlarge pictures

  BP96-01073A(P120W) P=Philips, 120W=120 Watt Lamp

  From this viewpoint you can see the lamp has a couple of “half circle” vents, one on either side. These are to dissipate heat better and allow the lamp to run cooler

  Here is another angle showing the side vents on the newer generation Philips UHP Lamps

  The connector is the standard philips connector that’s been used exclusively in the last 3 years and all enclosure after the BP96-00224D (which had a rectangular connector)

  At first glance, the lamp appears to be a ROUND bulb, like the older generation ROUND “E23″ form factor lamps. After a more careful inspection, you can tell that the lamp is indeed a square or rectuangular design, it’s identified as a E22 Lamp. Here are a couple of pictures of just the bulb only:

Notice the vents on the sides and the small form factor (E22). The older ROUND BIG Lamp looks like this:

Notice the old lamp is Round and considerably bigger (3.25″ diameter) versus the small square lamp (2.25″ diameter). Despite the size, the smaller form factor is being produced at higher wattages (more luminous).

Now back to the BP96-01073A Enclosure…

There are rare cases where customers have had a Samsung BP96-01073A Enclosure fitted with the older style lamp! This is more prevalent in european and other foreign markets more so than on TVs sold in the US. Regardless, you should be able to easily identify which lamp you have with these pictures. Holding the enclosure at a tilt will exposure the side vents, and looking at the side of the enclosure you should notice a much bigger lamp if you’ve got the older bulb!

For the best price & service on an original BP96-01073A Samsung replacement lamp, click here

In case you have the larger bulb, Discount-Merchant.com sells a kit that will allow you to utilize the new lamp in your current older style enclosure. click here to purchase the Philips Lamp + Adapter Kit:

  http://www.discount-merchant.com/Philips-Lamp-Adapter-Convert-your-your-DLP-p/new_samsung_plus_pla.htm&Click=1683

Well…instead of writing individual pages for various “How-To” guides, we have created a single page.  We will update this page as more guides are made available.  If you have a request for a specific enclosure, please let us know!

 http://www.fixyourdlp.com/lampguides/guides.html