Hi everyone,

Here is a link to the video showing the intermittent noise problem I am experiencing with my Samsung HLS-7178 DLP.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=1420583595645736954&hl=en

Descrition of problem:
The noise from the video is consistent (in duration and sound), and it happens every 6 or 7 times the set is powered up.  If it is one of those times it makes the noise at start-up, it also makes a quick “cough” at shut-down (one quick burst of the noise in the video). 

Aside from this noise, the set works/functions perfectly as far as I can tell (even during the times it makes the noise on startup, everything seems fine once the noise stops).  It appears to me that the brightness level/output may be lower when the noise happens, but I cannot be 100% sure of that.  Best Buy had sent out a very poorly trained technician at one point who thought the noise may have been the color wheel, but he disconnected the color wheel and was still able to recreate the sound.  The only way to reliably recreate the sound is to go into the Service Menu and adjust the DB Gain setting - if I do that and jog the value up/down, eventually I hear this same noise.

I think an important thing to note is that there’s no middle-ground on this noise; it either completely makes the exact same noise on start-up, or it starts up/shuts down whisper-quiet.  There’s never just “a little bit” of the noise.

This behavior started after a tech had come to fix an “image flickering” issue in November 2007; at that time, she replaced the ballast and the Dynamic Black Assembly.  The flickering went away, but this intermittent noise began. I contacted Best Buy and got a replacement lamp sent out to me to see if that was the issue, but the noise still happens with the new lamp.

My gut says this is an issue with the Dynamic Black assembly, but I want to be sure it’s that if I get someone to come out and replace it again (I really want to avoid a whole LE replacement, as the set is calibrated).

Any thoughts?

I’ve got a Samsung HLP5063W in service since January 2005 with 10,600 hours on the original lamp (smaller square lamp). About a month ago it started shutting down about 1-2 times a week. It came right back up when turned back on. This week, it’s shutting off every 20-40 minutes. It comes back up instantly when re-powered. All through-out this, the picture has been crystal clear, so I wonder if it is really the lamp that needs to be replaced.

Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks, Bill.

My picture is out I heard a “slight” grinding i think its the color wheel. Originally the picture went to a pink tone and then flickered and went out completely. shutdown and it did the same thing minus the pink tone. light fires up when i turn on the TV but shuts down in 5 seconds and i hear the slight grinding I removed the colorwheel and the bearing seems a bit rough. Any help please.

TV SAMSUNG SP50K6HDX de proyeccion tipo DLP

Si tienes alguno de estos modelos de Televisor Samsung de proyeccion tipo DLP : SP50K6HDX , SP56K6HDX , SP61K7UHX y requieres cambiar su la lampara visita : DM

Si te interesa saber un poco sobre su tecnologia , los cuidados de tu Tv Samsung y la vida util de su lampara BP96-01653A ( Datos tomados de la pagina de Samsung Electronics) aqui algunos puntos interesantes:

DLP (Digital Light Processing- Procesamiento Digital de Luz) Esta es una tecnologia desarrollada inicialmente por Texas Instruments Incorparated

En este tipo de Televisores de proyeccion DLP la imagen es creada a partir de un conjunto de millones de microespejos puestos en un chip semiconductor conocido como DMD (Digital Micromirror Device-Dispositivo de Microespejos Digitales) Cada Microespejo equivale a un pixel de la imagen a proyectar , la cantidad de espejos es equivalente a la resolucion de la imagen en proyeccion.

Dandote esta tecnologia las siguientes ventajas :

Una amplia gama de colores.

Tiempo de respuesta rapida del panel.

Un tiempo de vida mas largo. La vida util de la lámpara BP96-01653 es de unas 8000 horas , esto se traduce en 4 años para una media de 6 horas al día de funcionamiento o de 6 años para una media de 3.5 horas al día. La salida de luz de la lámpara es constante a lo largo de su vida hasta las últimas horas y entonces se reduce drásticamente su brillo, si necesitas el manual del usuario ve a este link de Samsung.

Bajo consumo de energia.

Un buen angulo de vision.

Cuidados de Tu TV-DLP Samsung ( mas detalles en la pagina de Samsung )

Mantenla separada de las paredes con una distancia minima de 10 cm. para una buena circulacion de aire y mantenla alejada de lugares con mucho polvo , humedos o muy calientes o muy frios.

Si tu TV se encuentra en un area muy fria y la mueves a una area muy caliente hay riesgo de condensacion dentro de tu TV-DLP y desde luego mal funcionamiento de la misma.

Tienes dudas o preguntas sobre como reemplazar la lampara o algun otro tema visita: http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/guides.php

Si necesitas comprar el reemplazo para esta lampara visita Discount_Merchant

Checa esta empresa no solo tiene el portalamparas BP96-01653 , tiene mas lamparas y partes para tu TV DLP Plasma y LCD . Cuentan con servicio de envio directo de Lamparas y partes a tu domicilio y en todas las ciudades del mundo.

http://www.discount-merchant.com/

Yesterday, I noticed that my HLP6163 started flickering a lot with colors totally off. I tried switching video inputs and I kept getting the same thing. So I turned it off, let it sit for about a half hour, and then turned it back on. I got sound but no video as the tv cycled through 3 times automatically of turning it off and on, and on each attempt I could hear the fan (or at least that’s what I think it is) struggle to turn on properly, until finally I got the dreaded 3 blinking lights. I turned it off again, only this time by pulling out the power cord as well. This morning, I plugged it back in, turned it on, and the tv cycled 3 times just like yesterday, but the faint fan noise was now a loud, distinct humm that pitched up and down. I have no idea what’s wrong. I suspect it to be the lamp, but I just got a new one put in on 8/17/07 (BP9600826A from samsungparts.com) and I’ve never heard of this loud humming noise before. From reading the posts, maybe I need to get a new fan or colorwheel as well?

My samsung HLS5688w has a slight flickering on screen and I have replaced the lamp, thinking that was the problem but it only worked for a couple of months and it started again. So now I’m wondering if its the color wheel. Any feedback is appreciated

Just received my replacement Philips lamps and DM adapter.
MANY questions!!
The new lamp is VENTED! Great idea - but HOW to orient the vents??
After much thought, I decided to mount the lamp with the vents horizontal. Several reasons: First - - it seems the fan blows side to side. In this orientation, the fan will be most effective to remove heat from the lamp.
Second: When the lamp fails, it seems to self destruct - forming great gobs of glass dust - and probably micro-pellets of mercury. Last thing I want is for that stuff to drip into the bottom of my TV set - - which is what will happen if the vents are vertically oriented.
Finally - - if the vents are vertical, then the heat from the lamp will vent out the top, against the plastic shell. Molten plastic doesn’t smell nice, so I’ll try to avoid that.
.
Next Topic: The enclosure currently in my set was made by LTI (I replaced the Philips bulb after 3500 hours - it hadn’t failed yet - but I figured there’s happiness in preventive maintenance). My experience with LTI - - NOT FREAKIN GOOD!!! First bulb failed after 55 hours. They replaced it. Second bulb exploded after 2141 hours (about a year). They won’t fool me again. It’s Philips or eternal darkness.
.
I used my new DM Philips bulb to replace the bulb in the LTI housing. It fits OK - in fact, maybe better than in the Philips housing?? !!! The LTI housing centers the bulb using small metal wedges - - seems to work fine - - HOWEVER - - please be aware!! The LTI housing is assembled with TORX screws!! You will need a TORX 10 to remove and reassemble the lamp housing. In addition, the Philips and the LTI lamps use different sized screws on the reflector connection!! DM does NOT include an electrode screw on their replacement lamp - - so you’ll have to figure something out. I used a #6-32 x 3/8″ machine screw, lock washer, and nut to secure the wire. All seems to work fine. In addition, the original Philips lamp had a heat reflector between the lamp and the center electrode (the LTI does not).
.
I wore powder and latex-free polybutadiene-acrylonitrile exam gloves to reassemble the lamp in the carrier to prevent finger oils from being left on the reflector/glass housing. I think these are available at most pharmacy “box stores” - like Walgreens, etc.
.
Finally - - when my original BP96-00224E Philips lamp finally does blow, it appears that the mounting fixture MAY block the new style lamp vents!!! (DM - - if you monitor this topic, PHOTOS of exactly how to mount your replacement lamp in the HLN617 carrier would be appreciated). I would like a step-by-step walk-through on how to replace the lamp in the original HLN style carrier. If I need to use my Dremmel Mototool to open up vents in the OEM lamp housing, DO let me know!!
.
Finally - - and I certainly HOPE this won’t be a problem: I purchased TWO replacement lamps - just to have an extra on-hand. Of course, I didn’t consider until later that the warranty is based on purchase date. Not sure how to handle the unexpected eventuality of the second lamp failing shortly after it’s installation - say 3 years from now.
.
Providing that I get reasonable life out of the DM product (no reason to suspect otherwise, as the lamp IS made by Philips), I have nothing but Kudos for the DM product. It works well (at least for the past 2 days), and providing you have the needed tools (typically just a philips screwdriver), and a bit more intelligence than your typical newt, you should be able to save about $100 over the cost of the OEM replacement. Also - - assuming that the vented lamp DOES turn out to be more durable than the OEM for the HLN sets, then we may even get a longevity bonus as well.
.
Merlin

With Samsung perfecting their new LED DLP lamp technology, I’m curious if the’ve given some thought (if it’s even possible) to offer those of us who own their lamp based DLP’s a better (4x longer life) replacement light source. 

Bill 

I have a Samsung DLP HL-R5678W,  when i turn on the TV the screen flickers (white flashes) and after about a minute the screen gragually turns very very bright (almost white) from the bottom of the screen to the top. I spoke to a tech, he said that it was the DMD board, which is very expensive $900-$1000. 

Can anyone confirm this diagnosis or can I fix this with a simple lamp replacement?

Help!!!

Question! My picture and sound both went out at the same time on my Samsung HLN437W yesterday, plus I had the 3 blinking lights. I took out the lamp carrier and checked it out and put it back in and picture and sound came back on, but later did the same thing again. It has 16,437 hrs on the orig. bulb and before I order a new one Monday, is it just the bulb or is there more going on then the bulb. I not sure if the sound also goes out when the bulb does?