My Samsung HL-R5678w has developed the problem below over the last few months... started out as a slight difference in brightness on one half of the screen and has progressed to the green and red "tailing" that is seen below. It happens with all inputs and sources (DVD, xbox, HD DVR from comcast) and the left side of the screen is flawless.
Would appreciate any suggestions. I had the infamous shadow issue way back in 2007 and had the digital board replaced at that time; have also replaced the lamp twice (both times at about the three year mark). Thanks!
Samsung DLP Help!
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Re: Samsung DLP Help!
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Re: Samsung DLP Help!
I can't take it anymore. I have a HLR6167W Samsung DLP. Was fine until a month ago. Lamp went out, fine put a new Phillips in. Then the banshee started screaming, fine put a color wheel in. Then wouldn't fire, fine the small brown ribbon was reversed. Finally it fires. This hidious dark picture comes on with this ridicules, mostly green ooze around the images, fine put the old color wheel back in. So either I have the choice of listening to the banshee, (until the old wheel explodes) or attempting to watch an un-watchable picture. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP??!! If I spend any more money on this set, my daughter won't get her iPhone for Christmas.
Thanks for listening :!:
Thanks for listening :!:
Re: Samsung DLP Help!!!!
I have a Samsung HLR4667WAX. Bought it in August 2006. The Color Wheel was replaced under warranty in January 2008. I replaced the projector lamp (3rd one) in August 2011. It has always worked great, until a few days ago.
The TV will turn on, and the picture is great...after 2 or 3 minutes, the screen will go blank (or "freeze", sometimes), then come back on. The sound goes out when this happens. The screen doesn't go completely "black", you can tell the lamp is still on. When all this happens, the Timer light on the power button will flash. There is a slight "buzzing" sound from the TV, but that was there, even before this started.
There is no "clicking" sound, like the ballast, when this happens.
This happens every 1-2 minutes.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
AT1984
The TV will turn on, and the picture is great...after 2 or 3 minutes, the screen will go blank (or "freeze", sometimes), then come back on. The sound goes out when this happens. The screen doesn't go completely "black", you can tell the lamp is still on. When all this happens, the Timer light on the power button will flash. There is a slight "buzzing" sound from the TV, but that was there, even before this started.
There is no "clicking" sound, like the ballast, when this happens.
This happens every 1-2 minutes.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
AT1984
Re: Samsung DLP Help!
Wow...(insert sarcasm)These forums used to be a wealth of information. Now, I can't get ONE reply or idea after 48 hours?
If I just had to replace the lamp, I'd have 30 replies!
This is posted in two different discussions.
If I just had to replace the lamp, I'd have 30 replies!
This is posted in two different discussions.
Re: Samsung DLP Help!
Exactly...now I have a 46 inch paperweight. I wish it was just a ballast!
Thanks for the reply, even if it didn't help! :lol:
Thanks for the reply, even if it didn't help! :lol:
Re: Samsung DLP Help!
Grimace,
The issue you are describing may be a matter of just reseting to factory defaults in the service menu of the TV. The HL-S6167WX has a service menu that you can get into if the set is turning on. Fixyourdlp.com should have the code for the service menu.
If the TV set is not turning on, you may want to make sure your grounding screws are fastened securely and not missing. If the unit detects a grounding failure, it will shut off. It will also shut off if the lamp is bad. Google "lamp troubleshooting wizard" and there should be a wizard that will lead you to the error codes on your samsung set.
If you do find out that the lamp is bad, I highly recommend buying Philips from a reliable dealer.
Guys,
I have recently heard some news from a fellow servicer that is really bothering me. It seems like everywhere you look online, you see generic chinese lamps popping up at extremely low prices while diluting the real dealers... Many of the lamps you find on Amazon and eBay are subject to a few issues:
1 - Lack of UV coating on the reflector that will cause a dim picture, not to mention it can damage the human eyes. The UV-less reflectors seem to be a new way china manufacturers are cutting corners to make money.
2 - The use of an extremely dangerous chemical called Kr-85 or Krypton 85. This seems to be the chemical the copy lamps are using to ignite the lamp in order to bypass the Philips patent on Kr-85-free UHP lamp ignition. This can cause serious health issues when the lamp explodes in your television due to lack of quality on the burner itself.
I highly urge all of you help get the word out that this stuff is dangerous and that people should be careful as the government is not regulating this product as it enters the country as they don't know the issues that exist.
I saw a good article here:
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/counterfeits
The issue you are describing may be a matter of just reseting to factory defaults in the service menu of the TV. The HL-S6167WX has a service menu that you can get into if the set is turning on. Fixyourdlp.com should have the code for the service menu.
If the TV set is not turning on, you may want to make sure your grounding screws are fastened securely and not missing. If the unit detects a grounding failure, it will shut off. It will also shut off if the lamp is bad. Google "lamp troubleshooting wizard" and there should be a wizard that will lead you to the error codes on your samsung set.
If you do find out that the lamp is bad, I highly recommend buying Philips from a reliable dealer.
Guys,
I have recently heard some news from a fellow servicer that is really bothering me. It seems like everywhere you look online, you see generic chinese lamps popping up at extremely low prices while diluting the real dealers... Many of the lamps you find on Amazon and eBay are subject to a few issues:
1 - Lack of UV coating on the reflector that will cause a dim picture, not to mention it can damage the human eyes. The UV-less reflectors seem to be a new way china manufacturers are cutting corners to make money.
2 - The use of an extremely dangerous chemical called Kr-85 or Krypton 85. This seems to be the chemical the copy lamps are using to ignite the lamp in order to bypass the Philips patent on Kr-85-free UHP lamp ignition. This can cause serious health issues when the lamp explodes in your television due to lack of quality on the burner itself.
I highly urge all of you help get the word out that this stuff is dangerous and that people should be careful as the government is not regulating this product as it enters the country as they don't know the issues that exist.
I saw a good article here:
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/counterfeits
Re: Samsung DLP Help!
AT1984,
I'm sorry for the late reply. I lost the bookmark on this thread and just recently found it.
The problem you are describing seems to be a DMD issue. The DMD chip should be easily replaceable to get that sucker going again.
Here is a good blog about the DMD chip:
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/2012/05/08/sa ... under-200/
I'm sorry for the late reply. I lost the bookmark on this thread and just recently found it.
The problem you are describing seems to be a DMD issue. The DMD chip should be easily replaceable to get that sucker going again.
Here is a good blog about the DMD chip:
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/2012/05/08/sa ... under-200/
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Re: Samsung DLP Help!
I'm having the same issue with an HLN467 as Robertt4x4 noted back in 2009.
After reading several forums I switched my DVD to component cables and it seems to be working better. TV, however, is another issue.
For a variety of reasons, pay TV is not an option at this time. Because this DLP doesn't seem to have a digital tuner, I have to use a converter box to receive over the air broadcast. The converter box connects to the analog video connection w/RCA and/or S-Video cable. The local TV comes in properly and sound is great but I'm getting the same picture distortion noted by Robert. My conclusions would be that either the analog board is not functioning properly or the TV doesn't like being tuned thru an analog video connection.
From what I'm gathering, if I could get an adapter to convert an RCA to component or HDMI it will likely solve the problem. However, after talking to some reps at local electronics places, it seems that these adapters are becoming scarce. Does anyone have any ideas? :?:
Also, I have an HLP5063 that is awaiting a new color wheel. Does this unit have a digital tuner or am I likely to have a similar issue? :?:
After reading several forums I switched my DVD to component cables and it seems to be working better. TV, however, is another issue.
For a variety of reasons, pay TV is not an option at this time. Because this DLP doesn't seem to have a digital tuner, I have to use a converter box to receive over the air broadcast. The converter box connects to the analog video connection w/RCA and/or S-Video cable. The local TV comes in properly and sound is great but I'm getting the same picture distortion noted by Robert. My conclusions would be that either the analog board is not functioning properly or the TV doesn't like being tuned thru an analog video connection.
From what I'm gathering, if I could get an adapter to convert an RCA to component or HDMI it will likely solve the problem. However, after talking to some reps at local electronics places, it seems that these adapters are becoming scarce. Does anyone have any ideas? :?:
Also, I have an HLP5063 that is awaiting a new color wheel. Does this unit have a digital tuner or am I likely to have a similar issue? :?: