Help with a HL-P5674W

[ulti24]

So I have a nice HL-P5674W; unfortunately it doesn't work. I recently purchased a replacement lamp, but that did not fix the problem, so I was hoping to get some insights as to what else could be the problem before I buy more pricey replacement parts. Here are the symptoms:

When I turn on the tv I get the nice turn on sound that it plays, the lamp light begins to blink. I hear some clicks from what I'm assuming is the ballast. Also I hear a whirring for a few seconds which I'm assuming is the color wheel (the cooling fan sounds different) and the lamp comes on for a few seconds and then cuts out (I see this because I have a back panel removed to watch). Then nothing happens for a minute and then the turning off sound plays and then I see all three lights flashing.

I have an entirely new lamp, so I'm pretty sure its not that. My next guess is that the color wheel may not be spinning fast enough, but there are the possibilities that the ballast may not be providing enough power or something is wrong with one of the boards. So, I'm at a loss.

If anyone has any clues, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

[Jason1976]

Do you have the switch taped shut to make it think the door is on the back of the lamp? If it is off the tv will power off. It could be many things. like the color wheel not spinning at the currect speed. Ballast could be bad and kicking off after so long. If you do have a tech look at it. It's cheaper to take it to the repair shop. They charge to show up at your home and these will fit into a mini van or most suv's.

[ulti24]

Yeah, the switch was definitely closed. How spinning freely does the color wheel need to be? I have taken it out and it moves easily when I turn it with my finger. Should it spin like a pinwheel, where if I have given it some momentum it continues to spin on its own? As of right now it will spin only as long as I'm pushing it and barely turns anymore once I stop.

Is there a way to verify if the ballast is working with a multimeter? I don't have an suv or a minivan and tv repair shops are kind of scant where I'm from, so I'd like to see if I could do it myself.

Thanks

[Jason1976]

I would start with a replacement ballast. If it wasnt your issue then turn around and sell the ballast to someone else, or buy it from a company with a return pollicy.

The color wheel should move freely. If you hear it starting up and its not overly noisey the hole time then I am guessing the color wheel is fine. It should spin for about 10 secs after you are done turning it quickly

[Crowell]

Yup, Sounds like a ballast issue, how ever have you also tried resetting the lamp timer? That is a very common issue with Samsung tv’s, because the manual dose not include any indication of the necessity to reset the limp timer after installing a new lamp.

Hope it works.

[ulti24]

So I replaced the Ballast and the problem persists with the exact same symptoms. How do I reset the lamp timer since I never get the picture to come up and I also don't have a remote?

Thanks!

[Crowell]

Here are the instructions to reset the lamp timer, good luck.
* Unplug your TV Set, wait for 5 seconds and plug it back.

* With the TV powered off point your remote towards your TV set.

* Press: Mute + 1 + 8 + 2 + Power.

* Your TV set should now say “Loading Factory”

* Browse down to “Option” then press Enter (or the right cursor button).

* A New menu will display, browse to "Clear Lamp" then press Enter (or the right cursor button).

* Your screen will change, at the middle you will see the option "Clear Lamp: OFF", press the right cursor button and it will change to "Clear Lamp: Clearing" then press enter.

* Wait a few seconds, the screen should go back to the previous menu. If nothing happens press the "Menu" button (this button works as a "Back" button).

* Now the "Lamp Hour" option should say "Lamp Hour: 0"

* To exit the service menu, hit press the EXIT button or just turn off your TV (remember not to turn on your TV immediately afterwards, wait for 15 minutes.)

NOTE: The Mute+1+8+2 buttons needs to be pressed down consecutively and fairly quickly. If your TV does not enter the service menu after using this combination, you can substitute MENU instead of MUTE. This seems to work for some sets.

[ulti24]

So I really can't do that because I don't have a remote for the TV and also I have yet to see any picture whatsoever come up (the lamp only lights up for a second) Could not resetting the lamp hours really cause this problem? I'm kind of skeptical.

So symptoms are exactly the same after replacing both the ballast and the lamp. I've already looked really closely at the color wheel and it actually seems to be in really good shape. Could I possibly just have 2 bad lamps or 2 bad ballasts? Is there a possibility that one of the sensors in on the fritz? Any ideas would be helpful!

Thanks!

[Crowell]

Here is how it works, when the lamp timer reaches or exceeds a certain amount of hours the DMD will shut down the TV for security reasons, when you install a new lamp and don’t reset the lamp timer it will keep doing the same thing since the DMD thinks it still has the old lamp (this is a VERY conmen issue with Samsung TVs. I would recommend you buy a new remote (preferably the original) and try to reset it before you buy another part or scrap the entire TV.

[ulti24]

So I received the remote and tried entering factory mode by following the instructions listed above. After many iterations, I wasn't able to get any picture to come on. Symptoms seem to be exactly the same as before. The remote does seem to work as it causes the tv to try and turn on and the led on the front of the tv blinks whenever I hit a button. If anyone has any other thoughts or suggestions, please send them my way!

Thanks!

[Crowell]

Hmmmm, looks like the only other option left is the color wheel, since some of the symptoms at the start point to the color wheel. You see the color wheel has to spin at approximately 7600 rmp, if the DMD board detects an abnormal spin rate it will shut off the DMD.

[notfake03]

If this problem still persists with anyone..... I have found the one little gremlin i think causes may of these issues.

ok.. so my tv was not staying on. it would shut off and turn on again after a few mins. I put a fan behind it and it would stay on. so i changed the thermostat and then the fan control board. neither fixed the problem. lamps did not fix the problem. I was inspecting for cold solder joints with power on and a plastic rod. i touched an electromagnet relay on the main power board and the tv turned on. I then moved it a bit and it turned off. I thought "cold solder joint" so i re flowed the contacts. same problem happened.

Here is my lucky genius... The part number is HRM3-DC5v (made in china) it is a one inch long by one inch deep and 1/4 inch wide black block just above the silver heat sink on the primary power board. this is a covered electromagnetic relay for DC. The heat sink messes with it. when the cover gets hot the relay does not work properly. I removed the cover by breaking the small clips off with a set of sharp tweezers. this allowes the relay to move freely... The tv works great now... I also do not have any power switch problems anymore.... well i hope this works for someone else.