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Greetings!

I have a three year old Samsung DLP, model HLR5667W that is having problems. It started with the TV turning off at random times. You know the story by now. It has always had adequate ventilation. The fans are all working. The inside is completely free of any dust, dirt, pet hair etc. I have messed with the door switch many times. I have made sure the door is screwed on tightly.

Finally one day the TV just started turning on and off, on and off... Now that's all it does. The only way to get it to stop is to unplug it from the wall, and as soon as I plug it back it back in, it immediately comes on, stays on for a few seconds, then repeats the cycle. As soon as it gets power, I hear the start up chime, the lamp lights up, the color wheel spins up, but all I see on the screen is the "check signal cable" message in the center and the "PC mode" box in the upper left-hand side of the screen, then the TV shuts itself off, then starts up once again. It does not respond to the remote or to the front power button. Sometimes, instead of the start up chime, it emits a real long tone, then shuts off. No indicators on the screen except for the "check signal cable". And yes, the lamp indicator does flash on the front of the TV.

I currently don't have anthing hooked up to it because I have since banished it to an empty room. I have tried hooking it back up to the cable, and a PC, just to see if having some sort of input would get it to stay on for more than a few seconds. I don't think its the lamp, since I do get a picture. I don't think it's the color wheel either. The ballast evidently works since the lamp is lighting up. I have read that it could be the DMD board, but that sounds expensive.

So, any suggestions other than what has been mentioned? I don't want to spring for a DMD board if it could be something else. I figure that will be a last resort.

Thanks.

I dont think it could be the DMD board....

ill bet my money to the analog board...

Hmm, how expensive is this going be, I wonder? Is it something I could maybe fix myself instead of buying a whole new analog board? I must say this is by far the worst electronic purchase I have ever made, but I am learning so much about DLP TVs and how they work. Oh, well, live and learn I guess.

Thanks for the response, Jake. Have you ever replaced an analog board before?

Thank you for the responses and advice. I will pull the board, check the numbers online, and cross my fingers. I'll let you know if this works.

again check out my fix for the digital board in the forum for the hlr5067w it used the same digital board as your hlr5667w. what happens is the one chip inside gets broken solder joints and it needs to be pushed down to make good contact. you could cut a peace of wood or use something eles to push it down. there is a metal case that goes over it so the wood would have to be tight when the case is put back on so it pushes on the chip. it's kind of like the xbox 360 x clamp fix. it puts pressure on the chip and makes it get contact.

Thanks for the info, Jason1976. I will search the forums for your post and see it that helps, since I am still waiting for the analog board to come back in stock.

I can't seem to get to the chip on the digital board. The metal cage is very difficult to get off. Any tricks that I am not aware of? I already slice up my hand trying to pry that stupid thing apart. I shined a flashlight down on the chip and I don't see any broken soldering or anything. Unless that would be on the bottom of the chip and not the top? I'm beginning to think I should just drive this TV down to Samsung and dump in their lobby and let them worry about it at this point. Maybe make a hamster cage out of it? Sigh.

well the board isn't hard to open. you have to remove the screws. loosen the nuts around were the cable screws in. and you have to remove the bolt/screws for vga and dvdi. then the case comes right off. we found a guy to reflow the solder and it should fix your issue.

http://jdelectronicsinc.com/ what it is. the solder is under the chip. its a BGA chip. you have to have a reflow machine to do it. he charges 40 dollars to reflow the solder.