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I have a Mitsubishi WD-60737 DLP with sound but no picture. (Solid Red light on front panel) The TV was working fine, until one day we heard a pop & it shut down when the lamp blew out - I replaced the lamp (original one was blown w/ glass all inside of it) & the screen came on the first time I started it after the new lamp was installed & the tv worked fine, but the next time I went to start it, sound came on but no picture for a few minutes, & then the tv shut off & the red light came back on & the screen/lamp would not start up - The new Mitsubishi lamp is still good, so I researched on the internet & it said to try changing the ballast, which powers the lamp - I ordered the correct ballast & installed it, but this did not fix the problem & the issue remains...Red light on front panel after a few minutes, tv has sound but no picture. (Occasionally when you try to turn it on, there is no sound & no picture, & every once in a while I can get it to come on fine for whatever reason, but it does not work again once we shut it off) I have tried resetting it many times, but the problem remains.

Could it possibly be the main power supply? Any help at this point would be truly appreciated!

Thanks a million for any help!!!

Sounds extremely similar to my problem with a 73735. A close model too. I've been looking for an answer for almost 2 months now. I found 1 swollen capacitor on the main power supply board. I tried ordering just the caps to replace them, and got it working about 10% of the time for a little while. Now I've ordered and installed a now power supply board. And I haven't been able to get it to come on once since.

Do you have a meter to measure the DC voltage going to the ballast? Test the yellow and black leads, black is positive. Do not test the white leads going to the lamp or it will fry your meter. I know cuz I did it. You should be getting close to 340 volts. I was getting less than 320 originally, 330 after replacing 2 caps, eventually went down to 300 for some reason, replaced the power supply board and now getting 335v. It usually drops about 5v each time it tries to kick on the lamp. If you don't know how to turn the TV on with the back cover off, just hold up the safety switch to the left of the lamp compartment with a folded piece of paper or something.

Also, you can get an error code from the TV. After it fails to start, press and hold the Menu and Input buttons on the front of the TV. The green light will flash a few times, pause, and flash more. The number of flashes are the first digit then the second digit. Mine flashes 6 times, pauses, then flashes 6 more. Error Code 66 Lamp will not light. Usually a bulb or ballast. I'm still trying to fix mine after a new lamp, ballast, and power supply.

This is my first time to try repairing a TV beyond just replacing the lamp. But I'm a fast learner. Maybe we can work out these issues together...

Ha, I guess I am not the only one with this issue! I just replaced the full power supply board, & just like you, it did not fix it, & the red lamp still comes on...I have now replaced the lamp, ballast, & power supply, & lamp issue is still there...Although unlike you, I am still able to get my tv to come on fully occasionally, & it will stay on & work perfectly until I shut it down again (which means I have to leave the friggin' thing on all day) Other days it will not come an at all after many, many tries, just sound no picture.

I am not sure what steps to take next, because anything that has to do with powering the lamp, has now been replaced with a new one. I double checked & found that my new lamp that I ordered & installed is actually an "OEM Compatible" lamp & not an actual Phillips or Mitsubishi lamp. I wonder if this could be an issue??? Again the strange thing is that the lamp will occasionally power up & work just fine, so I know the lamp is not bad???

I do not have a working digital volt meter at this time, but I probably can get a hold of one. Do I check the DC voltage at the wire connector from the power supply while it's hooked up to the ballast board, or do I disconnect it, & check the wires/connector directly? Also should the aprox. 340 volts be steady all the time or does it just come in a burst when the tv is turned on, & then lower? When is the correct time to check this voltage?

Last thing is the 60737 does not have Menu & Input buttons on the front of the tv like older models do to check the error code, so I am not sure how to do this other then look that I have a red steady light once it shuts itself off.

Thanks again for your input as it is much appreciated! I am now wondering if it could be the aftermarket lamp, even though it still fires up once in a while. Is your new lamp an actual OEM/Phillips lamp?

Any other input from another person for our problem would be Great!

Mine will still come on randomly. It happened last night as I was turning off my TV to go to bed. But like you said, some days it never seems to kick on. I don't have mine hooked up to anything, but I'm pretty sure I would get sound for a minute while it's trying to kick on the lamp. I'm not so sure about the lamp in my case either, since the Conn's guy replaced that. It looks like the original housing, so I think he only replaced the bulb itself. It is definitely Osram, but I can't verify any of the numbers on the lamp.

I test the yellow and black leads with the ballast connected, just shove the tester leads into the top of the connector. I get 335v+ with the new power supply board. It's powered as soon as the TV kicks on. Mine drops about 5v, for a few seconds, each time it tries to kick on the lamp. I imagine, since you've replaced the ps board, your voltage is good now.

I found the service manual for your model. There's a link to it below. You would hold Activity/Enter and Ch - to get your error code. Beyond all of this, I have no idea where to go next. I think we are stuck with the same problem here. Hopefully somebody, anybody can chime in with some helpful advice for us. I can't wait to get this extra 73" TV out of my living room!

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/17243942/Mitsub ... 37-737.pdf

Hey thanks for the free service manual!!! That is awesome & much appreciated ;o)
Gonna check the light code when I get home from work.

NEW LAMP DID THE TRICK!!!!! I finally decided to try & return the lamp, because there was no other direction to go, so I contacted the company that I purchased it from, & explained everything that was going on & what steps I had taken, & this was their reply:

"I am very sorry for the inconvenience this lamp has caused. We were trying a new manufacturer of the lamp for about 7 days at the end of September/beginning of October and the startup voltages were incorrect so we have pulled them. We continue to carry a model without these issues, that is completely in spec with the original. If you would like to try one of these (defect rate is less than 1%)"

Needless to say, they sent me a new lamp overnight free of charge & it works perfectly! Just wish I would have contacted the lamp company sooner, so I wouldn't have bought/intalled a new ballast & power supply...But since the lamp would still come on occasionally, I assumed that it was not the issue...I am pretty sure the start-up voltage in your lamp is the same issue, so I hope this helps ;o)

Thanks again for your help!

Oh well, maybe this will help someone with a similar problem in the future ;o)