Planar pd7010 problem

[Planar7010]

Hi there,



I have a problem with my Planar PD7010 which has no light output.



When I try to switch the projector on with the remote or projector power button, there is a relay inside which clicks and the power light goes out.

None of the fans are running and the lamp is out.



I have measured the psu voltages and the 3.3V rail is at 1.65V.



Can any of the members help or can anyone suggest where I can get a psu schematic from ?



Any help in this matter would be much appreciated.

[grayfox]

Hello,



I did a little bit of research and I cannot find a Planar PD7010 schematic for the power supply. I will keep looking, but the readout you are getting can be a regulation from the ballast caused by a malfunctioning ballast or even as simple as a bad lamp. How long have you had this unit and when was the first/last time you changed the projector bulb?



I hope I can be of some help!

[Planar7010]

Many thanks for the warp speed response,much appreciated.



I am the second owner of the projector and it was purchased as faulty.



I have isolated the ballast, lamp and mains input board.



It looks like the psu is not turning on, hence there is no supply for the ballast.



The mains input board has a power relay which I can activate with a +12V onto the ps on input pin on this board.



When everything is connected up there is +12V, on the psu output but the +3..3V is only at +1.65V.



Hope that it is the psu and not the main board.



A schematic of the psu or a similar psu would solve the problem.



I have all the test equipment, variac, isolating transformer, scope, dmm etc and a lifetimes experience in electronics but this psu has me on my back.



Any help would be appreciated.



P.S. I have trawled the net and even asked Planar but they were unable to provide any info.



Kind regards

[grayfox]

Hello,



Wow ok so it seems you have all the tools and experience, what area of electronics do you work in?



I think if Planar themselves did not share the schem's they will be near impossible to find...



Did you test the ballast and the bulb? The ballast returns gain amount to the PSU so if anything is off with the bulb or ballast, it will send a signal to interrupt/lower the power.



That +3.3V that you are reading at +1.65V is it going from the PSU to the ballast?



How did you test the lamp? The bulb (being mercury vapor uhp) has an arch, so even though you think it being A/C you can test, but there is an arch gap in the ignition chamber that will make normal testing impossible.



The output of the ballast to the bulb is generally between 5kV and 15kV so keep that in mind if testing it!! don't wanna damage or un-calibrate your gear.



Without getting too technical, I would visually inspect the lamp, if this was working at one time I think the main board (if there was no short) should be ok. DLP projection, if you read or have read already online, is pretty steady. The most common components being the lamp, ballast and colorwheel, that when bad send signal to the main and/or psu to cancel the boot. Then we have the internal components that do go out fairly less common like you know the power supply, the main, the input board and such.



I have spent tons of time trying to find voltage errors on boards only to find the lamp was bad, this is why I keep mentioning it!



Finally do you have a part number of the psu board? maybe i can find a compatible model that uses it (since like you must know, brands sometimes mix and match) that is more popular and find the diagram for that one..?



Good luck, Happy St Patrick's Day!

[Planar7010]

Many thanks for your input, much appreciated.



I am retired now but was a specialist in vhf, uhf and shf technologies for a world famous company.



The psu has the following legend on it : HT-7510 followed by 2973036602 which may be the manufacturers stock number.

Underneath this long number is a logo LF.



The converter uses a TOP244YN. I have ordered this device and am awaiting delivery.

Just as a precaution, I changed the TL431 reference regulator but it made no difference.



There appears to be a secondary converter for the ballast supply. This converter produces about 320V dc off load.

The lamp appears to be intact, no burns, fractures or otherwise .

None of the 4 fans are working nor is the color wheel.

The lamp interlock is continuous when measured on the mainboard pins whith the lamp/holder in place and the lamp compartment cover on.



I still think it may be the psu but will have to wait untill I have fitted the new top244yn.

All of the capacitors and diodes have been measured and appear OK.



I did e-mail PLANAR but their response was negative.



The previous owner of the projector did tell me that it required a new lamp but I fail to see how that can stop the psu from working.

At least the cooling fans should come on, even if the lamp is defective. Correct me if I am wrong.



This projector has been well looked after, no dust inside and in pristine condition.



I will post up any info as and when I have some progress.



P.S. how lucky you are to live in San Diego.



Kind regards

[grayfox]

Hello!



Retired from a large company, congrats!



Well it sounds like you are more than knowledgeable about what you are doing. I can see how replacing a converter might fix the issue of the fans and color wheel not jumping on while the unit boots up. Do they never come on at all, or are they halted when everything shuts down?



I guess I am left pondering just one thing I overlooked, I forgot to ask about the clicking you first mentioned, if its on the ballast it might be of some relevance. Where does the clicking sound on power up come from?



On a side note and sorry to sound repetitive, a lamp does not need to look damaged/defective to be spent, these UHP lamps are highly consumable. The reason I keep mentioning it is because I have changed and calibrated so many components on boards from the PSU to the DMD chip and after loosing patience, trying a lamp and have it solve the issue!





PS: Yes born and raised in SoCal, although as globe trotter back in my 20's, I have to say only people that have experienced other real weather climates and season changes other than just vacations, can truly appreciate 365 sunny days! I take it you are in an area with real weather? I miss the seasons sometimes i have to admit!



Regards

[Planar7010]

Hi Greyfox,



Thank you for your very valuable input.



None of the fans, colorwheel come on when I apply power to the projector.

The power button on the projector glows green.



When I press the "on" button on the remote, there is a "click" from the relay on the line input board and the projector power button mometarily goes to red and extinguishes.



Cant turn it on or off with the remote or projector power button, have to remove the line input and plug it in again.



On the psu output side there is an scr which appears to have cathode to gate low resistance in both polarities. Will have a look tonight.

The TOP244YN arrived today and has been installed but not tested yet.



Will keep you and all the members posted on progress.



I will disconnect all of the fans and colorwheel and plug in one by one, but the projector has never got to the boot up stage as yet.



This one is a real challenge.



p.s. I am in the U.K.



Thank you for your patience

[grayfox]

Hello,



Very welcome I am intrigued as to what is the source of this issue!



hmm so the clicking is originating from a relay on the line input brd.. I have no idea! The scr you mention going out of the psu, let me know what you find from testing it tonight.



Good luck with the TOP244YN.



btw, I love the UK, did some surfing up north during a semester abroad in London Metro. Water was Ice Cold, surfers up there use special wetsuits I was not aware..



Regards,

[Planar7010]

Hi Greyfox,



The TOP244YN did not resolve the problem.



I unplugged all the peripheral connectors from the main board, one by one which did not resolve the problem.



When I disconnect the power connector from the main board the 3.3v supply is normal.

You have to have the ps on and 3.3V sb connector plugged into the main board.



Looks like either a bad capacitor or if luck is bad the DLP chip.



I will have a look later on and keep you posted.



Its 8 deg C here today but its dry.

[grayfox]

Hello!



Thats not good. I would lean more towards a capacitor, unless you had any visual distortion (like spots on the screen) or erratic behavior.. The DMD chip or DMD board hardly ceases to function it mostly causes disruption when gone bad in my personal experience.



It is a COLD day in California with 15 degrees at mid day!