DLP Wont Turn On

[robbiebobbie92]

Hello Everyone!



This is my first post here, so let me know if I am doing this wrong.



I have a Samsung 60inch DLP TV Model# HLS6186WX/XAA



Last week I went to turn on my TV and it did its little jingle when turning on but the screen was black. Wouldn't turn on and there was 3 lights flashing in the front. The next day I turned the TV around and tried reseating the lamp and I got the same results. I read online and saw some people talking about the ballast being bad. When I turn the TV it clicks only once. There is no humming no buzzing.



When I turn it on, I look at the bulb and it flickers like it is trying to come on, but it wont. I have tried disconnecting the Ballast board and replugging it back up and had the same results.



The bulb is brand new only a few weeks old, it is a Samsung genuine bulb.



I tried to reset the bulb counter but I could not even get it into the service mode. But there are soo many ways I saw, can some one tell me which is the right way?



Everywhere I call to ask to look at it wants to charge me and arm and a leg just to tell me whats wrong with it. I can do the replacement, I just don't want to spend 60 dollars on the ballast to find out its the bulb(100+) or the color wheel(100+) or the DMD Board(TOO MUCH).



Thanks for your help!

[grayfox]

Hello and welcome Robbiebobbie! :D



If your TV will not show an image then resetting the lamp hour timer will be near impossible and I do not want you wondering the service menu blindfolded, this can lead to you throwing the image off calibration. The lamp hour reset is normally done after a new lamp is installed, is this the case? If a new lamp was recently installed and you are still not getting an image there are two ways to go from there: :!:



1 the Lamp is DOA, did you purchase the Original OEM Philips lamp from Samsung? (Samsungs use only Philips brand lamps) ;)



2 the ballast being a consumable part, failed after it has grown old with a lamp, is this your first lamp exchange? :?:



If you did not change the lamp I am almost certain if you put a new Philips lamp in your TV it will fire right up. If you did replace it with an original lamp there is a high probability it is time to change your ballast which is easy to do and cheaper than those Techs you have been calling! :o The ballast should not run you more than around 80 dollars on a site like discount-merchant.com , this is also a good place to find OEM lamps 8-)



Please take a look at the guide below on how to change a ballast :shock:



http://www.fixyourdlp.com/guides/samsung/bp47-00033a.php



Please let me know if i can be of further help! :geek:

[ovadoggvo]

Robbiebobbie,

As greyfox mentioned above, please make sure you genuinely have a Philips brand lamp inside - I recommend buying from an authorized distributor like Discount-Merchant to insure that. The market has gotten so saturated with generics and counterfeits (bearing a Philips or Samsung name/box - but the physical lamp is not original), that you can not be sure these days unless you have purchased from an authorized source. I have had experiences with sellers on eBay, Rakuten (formerly Buy.com), NewEgg and Amazon of which lamps with the brand "Philips" physically stamped on them were counterfeit. At times, the vendors of these products know that they are selling counterfeits but they tend to not say anything until there is a lawsuit posted against them... Please see the following excerpt from an Amazon sellers account that continues to sell product there:



-----------------------------

Important Notice: as of 06/18/2013



Recently it was brought to our attention that one or more batches of PHILIPS branded projection lamps, that may have been returned to ELECTRIFIED by Amazon customers, contained PHILIPS branded projection lamps that do not originate from Philips. Such counterfeit lamps may be of inferior quality and infringe upon Philips’ exclusive IP rights in the PHILIPS name and trademark Meanwhile these bulbs have been withdrawn from trade. We regret this situation and have taken steps to prevent this from happening again.



-----------------------------



With that being said..



#1 - Make sure you got a REAL Philips lamp.



#2 - Test your power supply by checking the input voltage to your ballast... then try "forcing" into the on position:



http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6&p=275&hilit=ballast+force+on#p275



Also, if you get a chance, please post your lamp code here so we can diagnose further.

[robbiebobbie92]

I don't think its the bulb because the bulb is a genuine part, and it was working for about 2 weeks with no distortion in the photo or dimness. Is there something i should look for when buying a ballast board. Like for the light bulb they say not to buy the knock offs because they are crap and 90% DOA. Someone recommended the website you mentioned, but they are out of stock currently. I googled the part number for my ballast board (BP47-00037A) and it came up with amazon and ebay. Amazon was out of stock as well, would you trust a seller of that part on ebay? If it says New with a seller rating of 100%? I have provided the link below.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SAMSUNG-BALLAST-LAMP-DRIVER-BP47-00037A-BP47-00033A-/400197229525?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d2d9d1bd5



Let me know what you think.



When you say lamp code, do you mean part number? If so its BP96-01472A



Thanks a lot!



-Robbie :D

[ovadoggvo]

robbiebobbie,

The ballast for your television is made by Philips Lighting - just make sure it says Philips on there. The part number BP47-00037A will usually not be on the ballast, you will most likely see 9137 008 20605 (The Philips part number) followed by EUC 132d P/41... I haven't seen any counterfeits. When Philips sells the DLP TV Replacement Lamp to Samsung, they also supply the ballast with the 913700820605 part number. When the part is then sold by Samsung inside your TV, the lamp turns into a BP96-01472A (Samsung Part Number) and the Ballast is installed as BP47-00037A (Samsung Part Number)... For this reason there may be 2 different part numbers to the same item (if you are shopping for price). One of the part numbers is from the OEM Manufacturer Philips, the other is from the TV Manufacturer Samsung.



The link you are referring to seems to be the correct BP47-00037A ballast made by Philips. The reason I don't think that it's counterfeit is because the price range seems to be inline with Discount-Merchant:

http://www.discount-merchant.com/p-146818-samsung-bp47-00037a-lamp-ballast-driver-bp47-00033a-bp47-00029a-bp47-00029a-1-468-927-12.aspx



Which is whom I would recommend you to if it was in stock... You should pickup that more expensive eBay ballast since DM doesn't have the cheaper one and you should be good to go!



Did you end up testing the voltage like I had explained in that previous post? Did you try to force on the ballast with a screwdriver as shown in that post? You may want to give that a go before you order a new ballast to save yourself some time...



We are here to help you diagnose further if need-be.

[robbiebobbie92]

I will bring home a voltage meter tomorrow from work.



I saw in that post about forcing the pins on the ballast a man that was talking about his bulb flashing three time likes its trying to come on. My bulb does the same thing.



Could that mean that the ballast is not pushing enough power to it? Or does it mean a bad bulb automatically?

[grayfox]

HELLO AGAIN ROBBIEBOBBIE! :P THANK YOU OVADOGGVO! :D



You seem pretty technically inclined 8-) , but before you take a multimeter to a ballast that can fire up to 15kV :shock: , I would ask you to reconsider! :oops: and take another look at the link ovadoggvo shared and follow those steps! :arrow:



Even though lamps run at a steady wattage (anywhere from 100 to 180 maybe more watts), the ignition jolt is quite a lot of KiloVolts!!! :o This can cause damage to yourself and the meter itself!



Cheers! :geek:

[ovadoggvo]

Robbie,

The issue is most likely either the lamp or the ballast. In rare cases, the issue can also be the power supply or colorwheel.



To test - Use your multimeter on the ballast as described in the post here (same link as before - in case people get lost):

http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6&p=275&hilit=ballast+force+on#p275



If you have the 320V-380V coming in when you hit the power button, then your power supply is good... This leaves us with 2 options:

1 - A weak ballast (this means the ballast can not ignite a new lamp, but may ignite an old one). New lamps require the maximum amount of power to excite the electrodes and get the mercury glowing.



2 - A bad lamp (even Philips lamps fail prematurely at times (0.001%) chance if it's an original... Still 1 in every 1000, you may be the luck one. If that's the case and the lamp is original and not a fake/counterfeit - go get yourself a lottery ticket :-)



-----

Now I know I said that the power supply could be bad - checking the voltage into your ballast will tell you if that's the case. In the case of the colorwheel there are a few things that can happen:



a) The color wheel is broken or b) the color wheel is not spinning fast enough... This will cause the TV to go into protect mode prior to igniting the replacement lamp. If the color wheel is broken or the the wheel can not spin at the required RPM, the ColorWheel will send a signal to the DMD Board telling it that there is a revolution issue - the TV will shut down.



If you need a color wheel - your part number is BP96-01579A (aka BP9601579A) and can be purchased here:

http://www.discount-merchant.com/p-146869-samsung-replacement-color-wheel-hls-hlt-series-part-number-bp96-01579a-bp9601579a-whousing.aspx



If your wheel is broken, then you can buy the bare wheel and replace just the wheel (BP96-01579A Bare Wheel)..

If your wheel doesn't spin or the sensor (mark sensor) is bad, then you need the wheel and the housing for it (about $30 more) - (BP96-01579A Complete)..



I'm assuming since your bulb is flickering when you force on the ballast, then your ballast or bulb is bad. If you have 320V-380V going into it and you know your bulb is good, then it's most likely a bad ballast.



Post your results in here so we know what happened!

[robbiebobbie92]

i went ahead and bought a new ballast and of course thats not the issue...i don't understand how the bulb could be bad. I replaced it and it worked for 2-3 weeks. Then it stops working....i have attached a video of my TV issue.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWVjyr4uWI8&feature=youtu.be

[grayfox]

Unfortunately this happens more than we would like. Did you double check all of the connections and make sure the back covers were properly set including the lamp door cover?

There is a very detailed guide on ballast exchanges on the link below, even if it is a different Samsung ballast model, I would retrace the steps for they are basically the same for all Samsung ballast replacements. Let us know if maybe you missed something.



http://www.fixyourdlp.com/guides/samsung/bp47-00033a.php



Two last questions, do you know the lamp hours on the current lamp you have?

The lamps lifespan might vary with each TV and its use/condition, I know you mentioned it is a genuine part, where was it purchased?

[robbiebobbie92]

Grayfox,



No i do not know the lamp hours. I will run through the guide real quick and see if it helps. But would you say the way the bulb flickers its bad? I bought it from a shop here in dallas that on their sign says samsung authorize reseller. I will have to find the name.

[robbiebobbie92]

Just looked over the guide and i still have the tv pulled apart. Unplugged all the connections and reconnected them. Same results.

[robbiebobbie92]

I read a few things online about the ballast board buzzing. I pulled the bulb and powered it on and it does the same thing. Does the buzzing matter?

[ovadoggvo]

Robbiebobbie,

Great video... Nice HLS6168WX/XAA television and I want to see that puppy up and running. I just saw the video and it does seem like the issue is the lamp... All systems seem to be functional and the DMD Board is sending the signal to the ballast to fire the lamp. The ballast is new and the lamp is not firing - which makes me think it's the bulb.



I have called in a favor at Discount-Merchant to send you a new light bulb to test the situation at no-cost.



It's become personal at this point and I'm really curious to see if it's the lamp that is bad or not. Please contact Discount-Merchant at 800-281-8860. Let them know that you were told by ovadoggvo on the forum that they would issue you a new lamp to test the situation at no cost.



If the light bulb doesn't fix the situation then we can continue troubleshooting and you can return the lamp. If you want to keep the lamp, you can just call them and pay for it once your TV is back up and running... It should be even cheaper than what you paid from Samsung.



Let us know how it goes... I'm really curious to see what happens!

[robbiebobbie92]

Thanks OVADOGGVO! I just got off the phone and they will have it shipped out today! They said it should be here before Saturday! Hopefully it works it sucks to watch football on my 32in rather than my 62 inch!



Yeah I know First World Problems.. :)



Thanks for all your help!

[ovadoggvo]

Good luck Robbiebobbie92... Please let us know if that resolves the issue.



Did you ever check the voltage from the power supply into the ballast? Was it between 320V - 380V?



I just want to make sure it's not a power source issue at this point... sometimes the capacitors on the power supply board go bad if the TV has been sitting for a while without use (I doubt that this is the situation in your case). I've had people buy TV's on Craigslist that had defunct power supplies because they were sitting with a bad generic lamp and no use for about a year. It's crazy how many people have sold their good TV's because they bought a bad/defective lamp on Amazon.... then they tear the TV apart trying to figure out what the issue is - the whole time it was the lamp made in a low end Chinese factory. Ouch!



I'm glad D-M took care of you and I look forward to your positive post on friday. I'm sure they would also appreciate it if you would give them a rating on Google and/or Yelp as well... We need to promote good business to differentiate them from the guys selling low-end products.

[robbiebobbie92]

I haven't tried it yet but i will here in the next day or so. But i definitely will give them a great rating!

[robbiebobbie92]

I have received the new bulb, but now the tv has a 2inch black bar across the top and the top image is cut off. WTH?! I am absolutely frustrated with this thing. I have tried going into the service menu and adjusting the vertical size and it only adjusted the top. I can't really find anything out there with people having this issue.



Someone please help me before i turn this tv into a shooting target.

[ovadoggvo]

Robiebobbie,

Don't panic! The good news is that the lamp you originally had purchase was causing the lamp powering on issue. I'm wondering if your lamp is installed straight into your television? A bar on the top is normally caused by the lamp not being inserted completely into the television set, or the light bulb falling out or tilting inside the housing during shipment. If you get a shadow on the left or right hand side, the issue is normally the light tunnel. But in this case, the top shadow has something to do with the way the lamp beam is entering the optics of your Samsung HL-S6186WX Television set.



Are you sure you didn't move anything inside the HLS6186WX TV?



Let me know and I'll help you out before you pull your hair out!

[robbiebobbie92]

Im sory i ment to say the bottom of the tv, and the top is cut off. I will pul the bulb out of the case and see if that works.

[robbiebobbie92]

I am just at a complete lost with my tv. I completely removed everything from the bulb down to the color wheel and the image is still cut off at the top and i still have the black bar at the bottom........What could have change from me switching light bulbs and changing the Ballast board that has made this image move up like this. I just don't understand.....

[ovadoggvo]

Robbiebobbie,

Can you please post a picture of your TV screen on here so I can see what we are working with?



I have also attached a copy of the Alignment and Adjustment section of the service manual for a HL-S6187WX ... This applies for a different model including HL-S6187WX/XAA (USA) and HLS6187WX/XAC (Canada) but I think it can help you..



This is for a Samsung TV that was manufactured a bit after yours... so the procedures should be similar (although the datapoints may be different)... Maybe this will help you see what you may have moved!



You see, this is the whole reason I steer people clear from buying Generic Replacement Lamps on eBay and Amazon. There was absolutely nothing wrong with your Television except the BP96-01472A lamp to begin with, and after a ballast and tear-down of your TV - we realize that something else has tweaked out of whack. I'm sorry to use you as an example, and I know that you did the right thing by buying an original samsung bp9601472a lamp from Samsung directly; but why people would buy these generic low-end lamps for their samsung and sony televisions is beyond my comprehension. Unfortunately you have wasted so much time with this TV all because the lamp was bad which is the easiest fix.



In either case... I just had to vent on your behalf.



I will do my best to help get you realigned. Let me know if the service manual helps. I'm sorry I don't have the exact one for your TV.

[robbiebobbie92]

I don't see the attachment but i was able to figure out what was wrong. I guess from disconnecting cables from the DMD board so man time is knocked it out of alignment. I loosened the 3 screws and the realigned it and now the picture is back and perfect. I appreciate all your help. After disassembling it zoo many times i feel as if i should be a tech! Lol



While i had the color wheel out when i would turn the wheel it would squeak, does that mean its old and is going out?

[ovadoggvo]

Robbiebobbie,

I'm glad we worked it out! Good thing I stopped you from throwing out a nice 61" Samsung DLP Television huh?



Also, I just figured out how to attach a file - I can fix Televisions all day, but you tell me to attach a file and it takes me 30 minutes to figure it out. I'm sure you will see where the adjustment screws on the DMD are based on the service manual I just uploaded! We would have fixed it either way.



The colorwheel squeeking at low revolutions is not a big deal. I would leave it unless you have the urge to change it. In your specific case I would recommend buying just the bare wheel from here and saving yourself some money if you are going to buy one:

http://www.discount-merchant.com/p-146869-samsung-replacement-color-wheel-hls-hlt-series-part-number-bp96-01579a-bp9601579a-whousing.aspx



Your part number is BP96-01579A for the wheel.



Make sure you pick the cheaper option of "bare only"... I always use coupon code "LOYAL10" and I get 10% off of my purchases as a return customer. Don't forget to give our buddies at D-M and FYDLP good reviews!



It was a pleasure helping you out.

[robbiebobbie92]

No problem at all! I will give everyone great reviews! I will recommend this website you everyone!