Samsung DLP HLN5065W color wheel?

[buddyc]

We have a Samsung DLP HLN5065W in which I hear the ballast fire up fine, fans run and lamp was replaced around a year ago. What is happening is that the color is now immediately semi saturated with far too much reddish-pinkish-purplish hues in some scenes and just plain dull and somewhat washed out overall. Picture is not sharp or vibrant anymore.

If it has been sitting cold for a while, I can turn it on and let it run for about an hour when very quick little white flickering starts happening. At first, it maybe gives a quick white flicker once every 12-15 seconds, then gradually every 6 sec or so, and then becomes worse over a 15 minute span and goes to rapid flickering, eventually getting to the state you see in the pictures. I could be imagining it, but it seems like when the flickers first start, certain scenes would not flicker much at all and others triggered it a little worse. Usually there is a light ticking sound which accompanies every flicker.

Interestingly, when I hook up my Xbox 360 to inputs in rear with the three different colored RCA jacks, the games "seem" to look sharp like they should with not much detectable loss in color or quality, BUT just like with viewing cable tv, eventually the screen does start the flickering process ending up with the same type of bad effect on the picture.

Sounds like color wheel from what I've read but I am very unsure because no matter how long I leave the tv running, I never hear the loud banshee squeal or see any broken fragments of the wheel inside the set. I actually have heard a loud squeal, but it only happened a couple of times when I would have the tv in full blown flickering mode, then turn the tv off and on again within about twenty seconds. I would then turn the set off, wait about 3 minutes then turn on again and the sound would not reoccur. I am aware that I should not turn it on and off quickly like that and it is not something I usually do.

I want to go ahead and order a part(color wheel , ballast, power supply, whatever) but just want to get a solid idea of what this most likely is before I make that move and shell out the money. From what I have described and what you see in pics, what does it seem to be?

[ChubbsTech]

Hello buddyc.
Let’s try to discard other possibilities before replacing the color wheel. my first recommendation is that you try connecting a external device using the HDMI cable (a Blue ray player for example) or another one using a VGA cable (PC or laptop). If the picture in fine and no abnormalities ampere after a couple of hours then we can discard the Digital video board, if the problems are still there then lets move on. You say that you hook up your Xbox to the component cables (white, red & yellow), and the picture looks fine but eventually it goes bad, am I right? If yes and there was no problem with the previous test (digital board) then the prime suspect would be the analog board an not the color wheel, how ever is both test fail, that means that the boards are fine, and the color wheel is probably the one to blame.
To find out more about the digital & analog board read the following link.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1321
If you have any more questions feel free to ask.

[buddyc]

Ok thanks for the advice on testing through VGA. I hooked up the 360 through VGA and just like with standard def cable hookup or with analog jacks in rear, the exact same problem happened after the tv had been on for about an hour. So does mean I can feel pretty secure that it's the color wheel? If so, who sells it for the best price and can I get a link to the best guide and tips on installing?


UPDATE: I just found it at this site with what seems to be a decent price. Anyone ever order from them? This is just for the wheel itself with no housing. Is it advisable to buy with housing or it it just as easy to install the wheel on the old housing?

http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsun ... -wheel.htm

[ChubbsTech]

Hello again buddyc.
The first thing that you need to do is open up your TV from the back. First clean the inside of you TV free of dust and mold to discard overheating as the source of your problems. Now that everything is nice and clean remove the color wheel from the housing. Look for the part number on one of the cables that goes from the color wheel to the DMD board. Look for it online (personal recommendation: http://www.discount-merchant.com/ , Samsungparts.com & ebay.com)
Check this guide out also, it may not be exactly as your TV but you’ll get an idea.
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/guides/samsun ... 01579a.php
If you have any other questions feel free to ask.

[buddyc]

Yes I was wondering about overheating because it always acts up at about the same time, 50-70 minutes after being on. I had opened and cleaned the rear of dust already and it acts the same. Is it typical for a color wheel that's going out to act in this manner? Also, is the color wheel basically just as easy to install without buying one with housing?

[ChubbsTech]

These symptoms are definitely not the most frequent, but never the less they are related to the color wheel most of the time, that way we are trying to discarded all other possibilities since I am not actually there to se what’s wrong with the TV.
I would personally recommend a color wheel already with an enclosure, its not that difficult but it saves you the time & effort of installing it. If you feel your pretty handy and on a budget, then go with the bear color wheel.
Good luck.

[buddyc]

Ok I'll be ordering the full color unit assembly tomorrow(I take it you still are referring to the color wheel when you said "ballast" and not the actual part that fires up the lamp). Thanks and I'll be sure to update this thread if it indeed was fixed with the color wheel with my unusual symptoms.

[ChubbsTech]

Sorry, wrote ballast instead of color wheel, but i already corrected it.

[buddyc]

Ok, I replaced the color wheel and the quality of the picture looks the same on analog. i haven't left it on long enough to see if the biggest issue, which is the flickering picture after an hour, is going to occur. I have another problem to address now though - I was so disappointed in the picture looking the same that I went into the service menu and as soon as I did, the picture became just a scrambled gray snow but I could still here the sound. I then tried to do eer reset and now I get no picture or signal, instead the screen just says "AIR 3" and i can't get it back to normal standard tv. Please help me at least get this thing back to regular analog cable signal.

[buddyc]

[Crowell]

What brand of lamp is inside your TV? Normally Philips last between 6000+ hours & OSRAM from 4000+ hours. So unless you have your TV on for lengthy periods your lamp should last you 2 years at least.
If you have a generic brand then it’s probably time to change the lamp. When the picture on the TV is not as bright or crisp as when brand new, that means the mercury gas inside of the lamp is running out.

[buddyc]

I am pretty sure it's a Philips because I got it from Discount Merchant. Oh yes, I have got to be at at least the 6000 mark because we often run the tv 24 hours a day. I'm probably over the 8000 mark. Do the colors become somewhat washed out with slight fuzziness in some scenes with red, pink, and orange colors saturated looking?

If I get a new bulb, what are some tips with settings to increase bulb life and how often should the set be turned off and let rest if at all?

Any thoughts on the stain I saw on the color wheel cover and if it's typical?

[ChubbsTech]

I have just finish reading your post and I think Crowell missed the whitish stain in the middle part. That glass is a UV filter and if its defective in any way it will affect the picture on the screen. Here is post that describes that in detail. viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1314
I assume that you only replaced the bear color wheel, and not the entire housing. If so that would explain why you still have the problem, so I suggest you look in that direction before you purchase a lamp.
Hope this helps you out.

[buddyc]

[Crowell]

Thanks Nightkid, I totally forgot about the stain. The picture on the link is the UV filter from a Samsung color wheel enclosure, it might not look exactly the same as the one on the post above, but I suggest you double check yours, if so your going to have to buy a new one, the bad news is that the sell the housing with color wheel or the bear color wheel, no bear enclosure is available as far as I know.

[buddyc]

[ChubbsTech]

Try http://www.discount-merchant.com/ or you could also do a search on ebay.com, remember to search buy part number & TV model.
Keep us posted on any new developments.

[Edwald]

Hello, I can't help but notice that my television is doing something similar. It works fine every few weeks or so for a couple of days, and then goes back to having trouble with the color green. Is it common for the television to go back and forth between working correctly and erring? Any help would be greatly appreciated.