HLR6164W Shuts Down

[mocum]

I have a problem similar to many others I have read, and hope someone can suggest a solution. About two months ago the TV shut down for no apparent reason, screen went black but sound kept working. The lamp was not making any light. When this happened it made no strange noises and no funny smells. After waiting a few minutes I was able to turn it on again and everything worked fine. But it kept doing this more and more frequently over the past month until now when I turn it on I get a good picture for only 60 to 120 seconds and then it shuts down leaving all three lights blinking (green timer light, green lamp light, red standby/temp light). If I try to restart the TV right away it will not start. If I wait a few hours it will start, but blinks off after 60 to 120 seconds as described above. When trying to restart it right away after it has blinked off it makes a sound like something is trying to get "wound up" for 3 or 4 seconds then a click then winds down then winds up again then a click then winds down again and repeats this little cycle about 4 times then the TV shuts off without ever getting a picture and without the lamp ever lighting up. This winding up and winding down sound does not occur when it starts and actually gives a picture (which only happens if I wait a few hours to try starting it) Then if I wait a few hours it will start again for the 60 to 120 seconds as described above.

I bought this TV in 2005, it is 10 years old. I have replaced the lamp twice and the colour wheel once over the years. So, I put in a new lamp this week just to see if that would fix the problem, and still the same thing as described above. I then put in new fans this week and still the same thing. I have not put in a new colour wheel or ballast because I am afraid it will still be the same thing. As I said, when I turn it on I get a great picture for about 60 to 120 seconds and then it shuts down. Does not seem to matter what sort of input I have been using - satellite TV via component video cables, DVD via HDMI cable, or Netflix off of a iPad via HDMI - I get the same symptom.

I noticed some posts that mentioned resetting the clock. I have never done this. It sounds complicated. Is it necessary to do that on this TV? Maybe this TV is too old and ready for the scrap heap, but it was making a great picture so I am prepared to spend some money on it if you think there is a solution.

Thanks to anyone with a solution.

Mocum

[ChubbsTech]

Hello,



Please try the insrtructions below for the lamp timer reset. These should work for you. Please keep in mind that if the ballast has never been replaced before it's likely that the problem will be the ballast. This is what powers the lamp and with time this component loses the ability to produce the power that these lamps need to ignite and remain lit. The ballast is the second most common part to fail and Samsung TV's are known for needing a ballast usually after the 2nd lamp replacement. Try the reset if the problem is still there I would defintely be suspicious of the ballast.



Once you have installed your OEM replacement lamp, resetting the counter is a very simple procedure:

• Begin with the TV powered off.

• Point your remote towards your TV.

• Press:

• Menu + 1 + 8 + 2 + Power.

• Your TV set should now say “Loading Factory”.

• Browse down to “Option” then press Enter (or the right cursor button).



To exit the service menu, hit press the EXIT button or just turn off your TV (remember not to turn on your TV immediately afterward!).



NOTE: The Mute+1+8+2 buttons needs to be pressed down consecutively and fairly quickly. If your TV does not enter the service menu after using this combination, you can substitute MENU instead of MUTE. This seems to work for some sets. Also, the right cursor arrow also acts as the ENTER button, so try it if you’re having difficulty with the ENTER button.

[mocum]

Thank you ChubbsTech. I will try the lamp timer reset and let you know.

[mocum]

I did the lamp clock reset, but still have the same problem. Any other suggestions? ChubbsTech suggested a new ballast, so think I will try that. Will let you know how that goes in a week or two.

By the way, the lamp timer reset worked for me using the Mute button rather than the Menu button, and using the right cursor button rather than the Enter button. Also, pressing the Exit button did not work at the end of the procedure, so just powered it off, then waited about an hour before turning it back on.

[NodakFarmboy]

Hello: I hope I can join in as I am just this week having the same issues with my HL-R6178W, which is close to the same age as Mocum's. Maybe we can solve both problems at once. My issue started the night before Thanksgiving when our power utility went offline for ~2-4sec, and when the power came back on, my Samsung DLP started having this problem--all three front LEDs flashing. All 3 fans are running. I blew out the dust. I replaced the lamp; did the lamp clock reset (not sure if that worked, since nothing comes up on the screen). No change. The lamp actually comes on for a few seconds...first dim, then bright, then turns off. (The old lamp did this, as well.) If the ballast is bad, would the lamp come on at all? Could it be the thermal sensor above the lamp? Also, I searched online for the ballast by my model, but there seems to be so many--with different part numbers--that look very similar—how to find the correct one? I have a photo of mine, but not sure if I can upload to this forum (this is my very first post). Thanks! --Mark

[appleads]

Due to your mention of an "electrical event" with your power, I would check the capacitors on your power supply. Any bulging caps? Tops should be dead flat. Are you sure the blue safety switch is in the correct position? Or do you still have the back panel off? Ballasts are almost all the same across several DLP tv makers and look for a supplier's part number that ends in 41. Try EUC132DP/41 the version ending in 42 has a blue/brown wire 3 prong plug instead of a 2 prong plug on the "41" if I remember correctly. Try eBay for a good used one. Wiring should be new looking and not "aged".

[NodakFarmboy]

The problem was the ballast. TV is back online now. Got the replacement here for $75 w/ shipping:



http://smile.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-BP96-00690A-ASSEMBLY-BALLAST-Original/dp/B004XJ4GIQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1450312881&sr=8-1&keywords=SAMSUNG+BP96-00690A+ASSEMBLY+BALLAST+OEM+Original+Part





Regards,

Mark