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Every week we are going to try and provide you with a set of Manuals for your TV that we normally lose or can’t find over time.

The TV brand for the second sets of Owners Manuals is Hitachi. Enjoy.

You can download or view them here:

Hitachi 50V500A, 50VX500, 60VX500 Click here. 

Hitachi 42V710, 42V715, 50V710, 50V715, 60V710, 60V715 Click here. 

Hitachi 50C10, 50C10E  Click here.

Hitachi 42V515 Click here.

Hitachi 42V525 Click here.

Hitachi 50VX915, 60VX915, 70VX915 Click here.

Hitachi 50VS810, 60VS810, 70VS810 Click here.

Hitachi 50V500, 50V500A, 50V500E, 50V500G, 60V500A, 60V500E Click here.

Hitachi 55VS69, 62VS69 Click here

Hitachi 50V525E, 60V525E Click here

Hitachi  50VS69A, 55VS69A, 62VS69A  Click here 

Hitachi  50VG825, 55VG825, 60VG825  Click here

Hitachi  50VF820, 55VF820, 60VF820  Click here.

Hitachi 50V720 Click here.

Hitachi 50C20 Click here.

Hitachi 51F59, 57F59, 65F59, 51F59A, 57F59A, 65F59A, 51F59J, 57F59J, 65F59J Click here.

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Step 1.- Before you start doing anything, unplug the TV from the wall outlet. There are a few thousand volts going through your ballast, be very careful! It’s also a good idea to let the TV cool down for at least 15-20 minutes as the bulb itself can get extremely hot and you can severely burn your hand.

Step 2.- On the side of your TV locate the lamp door on the left side (looking from the back).

Use a Philips screw driver to unlock it and remove it.

Step 3.- Inside you’ll be able to find the lamp enclosure.

Uninstall the two screws holding the enclosure in place.

Step 4.- Pull it out from your TV using the metal handle.

The inside will look something like this.

Step 5.- Place the new enclosure inside.

Secure it in place using the screwdriver.

Step 6.- Place the lamp door before trying to turn the TV, that’s because there is a white switch that needs to be pressed in order to turn on.

Step 7.- Reinstall the screw on the lamp door and your finished.

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JVC TS-CL110U Lamp Enclosure.

Step 1.- Before you start doing anything, unplug the TV from the wall outlet. There are a few thousand volts going through your ballast, be very careful! It’s also a good idea to let the TV cool down for at least 15-20 minutes as the bulb itself can get extremely hot and you can severely burn your hand.

Step 2.- On the back of your TV locate the lamp door on the left side.

Use a flat screw driver to unlock it and remove it.

Step 3.- Inside you’ll be able to find the lamp enclosure.

Uninstall the two screws holding the enclosure in place.

Step 4.- Pull it out from your TV using the metal handle.

The inside will look something like this.

Step 5.- Place the new enclosure inside.

Secure it in place using the screwdriver.

Step 6.- Place the lamp door before trying to turn the TV, that’s because there is a blue switch that needs to be pressed in order to turn on.

Step 7.- Reinstall the screw on the lamp door and your finished.

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Sony XL-2200 Lamp Enclosure.

Step 1.- Before you start doing anything, unplug the TV from the wall outlet. There are a few thousand volts going through your ballast, be very careful! It’s also a good idea to let the TV cool down for at least 15-20 minutes as the bulb itself can get extremely hot and you can severely burn your hand.

Step 2.- In the front of your TV there is a bottom panel where you can access the lamp enclosure door.
Remove it by uninstalling two screws on each side of the panel with your Flat tip screwdriver.

Step 3.- Now go back to the front and you’ll see a metal security bar across the enclosure.
Use your screwdriver to remove it.

Step 4.- Inside you’ll be able to see a hex toped screw that holds the enclosure in place.
Use a Hex key to release it.

Step 5.- Pull it down and you’ll be able to extract it with ease.

Step 6.- Pop in your new enclosure the same way you took out the old one.
Screw it back in with your hex key.

Place & reinstall the metal bar back again.

Step 7.- Take the bottom panel and place it back in the front of your TV.

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Step 1:

Test for voltage at the test point as shown in this picture below:

This guide is being published in order to show the end user how to test

(This guide isn’t finished yet)

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I just got word from Discount-Merchant.com that they are selling all RCA and Samsung lamps made by Philips for $99.99. That’s unheard of! I just thought that if anyone was looking for a deal, this is the time to buy Philips UHP lamps on sale. The E22h is usually 109.99 and the E23h is usually $119.99. From Samsung BP96-00224C, BP96-00826A, BP96-01472A, to RCA 265866 and 270414 and 260962–all use an OEM Philips lamp!

I’m not sure if the store is dropping the price or if they will require a coupon code.
This is a great opportunity to stock up for your Samsung or RCA DLP TV. If you’ve got one of these TVs, chances are you’ll need a new lamp in the next year or two…Why not purchase a couple so you’ll never have to worry about this problem again! Bargains like this are hard to come by!

More details to come!!!

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Counterfeit lamps DO exist… and they are presented in a number of different disguises:

  • Generic lamps sold online by a number of vendors today should be considered counterfeit when sellers deliberately mislead consumers with claims to "OEM" or "Genuine Original" when in fact the are knock offs. There are many of these generic lamp e-tailers popping up daily… it’s a disease that needs to be stopped! We will show you the questions to ask and how to confirm you are receiving a genuine product!
  • Brand name lamps, marketed and sold, again, as the “original” lamp for your particular TV. Just because an aftermarket lamp has a brand name stamped on it does not qualify it as an original part number for your TV. Your television was engineered with consideration from the ORIGINAL lamp supplier and the TV manufacturer. Engineers from both companies worked hand in hand to fine tune your picture. What does all this mean?

EXAMPLE: lets use for example a Samsung DLP TV, model HLS4666W TV. The original lamp part number is BP96-01472A. This part, when purchased directly from Samsung at about $199.99 includes the plastic case (sometimes referred to as the enclosure, assembly, housing, etc.) and the actual lamp. The lamp this TV originally shipped with out of Samsung’s factory was manufactured by Philips. The replacement part number BP96-01472A shipped from the Samsung Parts Factory is also a Philips. There are vendors out there that claim to sell the original lamp for your TV at deep discounted prices… this is a sign something is not right.

  • The competition is hot and it’s only heating up higher. Generic companies are trying to figure out ways to gain a piece of the market share and there is nothing they will not consider to get it! As are copies of brand name sunglasses, watches, purses, and so forth, copycats have realized the market potential of replacement lamps (more on this below). What’s stopping a third party lamp manufacture from stamping “Philips” on their lamps and introducing them into the marketplace? Nothing really. Philips doesn’t have a world police as every dock examining every product that’s shipping off international ports. If the clothing industry cannot prevent fraud and copycats I would imagine lamps would have similar problems. All the more reason to purchase lamps from authorized and legitimate distributors, not just a fly-by-night company with the best price working out of their garage importing generic product!

Where do these bogus vendors sell?

  • eBay is a common breeding ground…as are fly-by-night brand-spankin’ new ecommerce stores. They claim to ship you original parts at deep discounted prices, often times over $100 less than the manufacturer! For a part that retails less than $200, something is wrong when an e-tailers claims this folks, watch out.
  • Heavy marketers – some of these fly-by-night merchants are investing literally thousands of dollars a day on advertising [to be blunt] their crappy merchandise. And they really do need these advertising campaigns to trick uninformed consumers into their scams. Search for Samsung BP96-01472A lamp, you’ll see a lot of these scammers on paid google search results. These guys are battling out through pricing competitions on a daily basis…ultimately they will lose any credibility if they’ve had any when consumers realize what is going on.

What do these bogus vendors sell?

  • More often than not, cheap, generic lamps. These are made by a handful of manufactures, mostly in Taiwan and mainland China. Factories seem to be popping up as these realize the market potential of this industry.
  • Branded lamps – Venders often claims they are selling an Original Equipment Manufacture (OEM) product. While a lamp may be OEM for one product, this does NOT make it an OEM product across the board! I.E., if a Samsung lamp is manufactured by Philips, that does not necessarily mean that a different Sony TV’s OEM lamp is Philips (in this case, both Samsung and Sony depend on Philips as the OEM, but that’s beside the point). There are third party lamp manufacturers that are insisting to sell original lamp by marketing them as OEM. This is a lie and deceitful!

Why do consumers need to be wary of these third-party and counterfeit products?

  • Rear Projection TV’s (RPTVs) were manufactured by collaboration efforts between many different companies. Texas Instruments (TI) was instrumental in creating the DLP Technology and the DLP chip that spawned this revolution of TVs and Projectors. Philips has been a huge part of the movement as the inventor of the UHP lamp technology used across the world today. With these two main partners are the OEM product manufactures, such as Samsung, Sony, Toshiba, Panasonic, etc. It is collaboration through these companies that resulted in RPTV and Front Projection (FT) projectors.

As this is the case, these companies have spent countless hours perfecting their innovations to work together seamlessly. These companies have spent millions upon millions of dollars on Research and Development (R&D) to not only created and perfect their technologies, but to mesh all the this technology together.

When a third-party manufacture enters the marketplace, there are a lot of disadvantages at play…and that is a whole other discussion there…

  • Often times third-party products (including lamps) can VOID your manufacturer’s warranty and lead to premature failure of other components inside your TV set! Your DLP is “driven” or powered on by a “lamp driver” or a “ballast” This ballast has been engineered as the bridge between the TV manufacturer (Samsung for example) and the lamp manufacturer (Philips for example). To ensure proper ignition, continuous voltage, and a healthy long life, the ballast and lamp are matched together.
  • With a generic or third-party lamp, you are committing yourself to buying an inferior product! Spending $5, $10, or $15 extra on an original part versus a generic/third-party should be a no-brainer when you’ve got a lot more to lose than a few bucks! More on this to come, this has already become longer than it should be.

What should consumers do to protect themselves?

  • Always buy from reputable, AUTHORIZED dealers.
  • Check to see how long the company has been in business.
  • Check affiliations
  • Compare pricing with competitors (if you see a vendor that’s extremely cheap, but has limited quantity, that’s a red flag)
  • Call the company to check them out and ask questions
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The Olevia LCT50HV TV was produced by parent company Syntax Brillian (trading under BRLC). The company went into Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection earlier this year after defaulting on numerous loans. Per SEC filings in February of 2008, Syntax owed creditors more than $130 million! Today, Syntax-Brillian’s brands: Olevia & Vivitar are owned by a new corporation Olevia International Group, LLC, which falls under the umbrella of TCV Group. In short, it’s all a big mess, and that’s why there are no replacement parts available for these TVs!

Our sponsor, Discount-Merchant.com has secured a significant amount of replacement parts for these Syntax Olevia LCOS Televisions, including replacement lamps (the consumable bulbs), light engines, DMD and printed circuit boards, power supplies, remotes, manuals, front screens…you name it.

We’ve had numerous people ask us: “Where can I get a replacement lamp from my Olevia TV?” Or, something like, “I’ve searched everywhere and I can’t find the lamp for my TV!”

Why is it so difficult to find the replacement lamp for these Syntax Olevia TVs?
For one, these use a special type of lamp not common among LCOS, DLP, or D-ILA TVs. The typical lamp TV lamp has an ignition voltage of 15,000-20,000 volts. The Olevia’s prefer a lamp that ignites at 5,000 volts, hence, the lamps are not compatible. Today, it is extremely difficult finding these replacement lamps or any other spare parts for that matter. Let us know which parts you’re looking for and we’ll get them to you!

Here is a direct link to the lamp.

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Hi everyone,

Descrition of problem:
The noise from the video is consistent (in duration and sound), and it happens every 6 or 7 times the set is powered up.  If it is one of those times it makes the noise at start-up, it also makes a quick “cough” at shut-down (one quick burst of the noise in the video).

Aside from this noise, the set works/functions perfectly as far as I can tell (even during the times it makes the noise on startup, everything seems fine once the noise stops).  It appears to me that the brightness level/output may be lower when the noise happens, but I cannot be 100% sure of that.  Best Buy had sent out a very poorly trained technician at one point who thought the noise may have been the color wheel, but he disconnected the color wheel and was still able to recreate the sound.  The only way to reliably recreate the sound is to go into the Service Menu and adjust the DB Gain setting – if I do that and jog the value up/down, eventually I hear this same noise.

I think an important thing to note is that there’s no middle-ground on this noise; it either completely makes the exact same noise on start-up, or it starts up/shuts down whisper-quiet.  There’s never just “a little bit” of the noise.

This behavior started after a tech had come to fix an “image flickering” issue in November 2007; at that time, she replaced the ballast and the Dynamic Black Assembly.  The flickering went away, but this intermittent noise began. I contacted Best Buy and got a replacement lamp sent out to me to see if that was the issue, but the noise still happens with the new lamp.

My gut says this is an issue with the Dynamic Black assembly, but I want to be sure it’s that if I get someone to come out and replace it again (I really want to avoid a whole LE replacement, as the set is calibrated).

Any thoughts?

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I’ve got a Samsung HLP5063W in service since January 2005 with 10,600 hours on the original lamp (smaller square lamp). About a month ago it started shutting down about 1-2 times a week. It came right back up when turned back on. This week, it’s shutting off every 20-40 minutes. It comes back up instantly when re-powered. All through-out this, the picture has been crystal clear, so I wonder if it is really the lamp that needs to be replaced.

Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks, Bill.

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