HLS4266wx,PB01 not working after replace all items

[warzonepr]

Hi All

I need your help figuring out the issue with my Tv.

Model is HL-S4266wx and is PB01 (since i saw here theres is a difference)

I will try to explained the symptoms as better as i can, since my english is not 100%

The Turns on makes the click sound that the ballast should do

evreything starts running including the lamp and a few seconds after you see video displayed on TV you start hearing the color wheel doing chimmering noise at the same time as the lamp is (like) loosing power. after this, it just turns off and it will turn on again and repeat everything for like 3 times and then it will go to the 3 blinking lights.

It looks like both parts are sync when this happends (meanng the sound from the coloewheel with the lamp loosing power)

I have replace the Lamp first with a phillip lamp and it keep doing same symptoms.

So, the following thing i did was replaced the Ballast. I have installed two of this already and sam results. First replacement, turn and worked fine for like a 1 min. or 2 min. then same sympthoms came back. Second replacement of the ballast didnt do any change.

Like i mentioned i also changed the colorwheel since i saw that this could trigger the 3 blinking lights (or the smile face).
the color wheel has whispering noise, so it needed to be changed anyways.

Now, i saw that it wont hurt to do a reset on service menu on the lamp hours, so i did. But the strange thing is that when the TV is in servive menu, the TV work fine, but when i reset it will try to turn on immediately and repeats the same sympthoms as described above.

Hopefully i have described my problems as clear as possible and that some one could help figure out the real problem. If you requiere more info, just let me know.

Thanks in advance

[BYO]

:geek: Hi,

Well there are 7 different items that will trigger the LAMP indicator Led light in front of your TV and those are:

1.- Lamp:
It doesn’t have a sensor that indicates it’s not working, the ballast just simply can’t turn on the lamp, THE BALLAST send an alert message (not the lamp). The only reasons why a new lamp doesn’t work it’s because it’s defective(which is less than 1% of the Philips lamps, Osram’s is less than 4%, Toshiba’s or Ushio’s are around 8%),or because one of the following components is preventing the ignition or the functioning of the lamp:

Ballast, Positioner Sensor, Temperature Sensor, Lamp Hour Meter Sensor, Color Wheel o DMD.

2.- Ballast:
When the ballast is defective we can have the following symptoms:
a) The new lamp doesn’t turn ON.
This can be because the ballast is not reaching the required voltage so the lamp can turn on(15kV or 15,000volts). If you hear some Click’s, these are pulsations from the ballast that is trying to turn on the lamp, but it does not successful.
This can be a problem with:
Defective lamp, defective ballast or the connector from the lamp is not making contact with the ballast connector.

b) New lamp does not turn on, but it turns off
This can be because the ballast is able to turn on the lamp, but it’s not able to keep the lamp on. The lamp works in a range of Wattage, and the ballast should work in a range of Voltage (50V-350V depending on how worn out the lamp is, the ballast will automatically adjust the voltage) so the lamp can work this way. If the ballast is not able to adjust the voltage that is required by the lamp in that moment, it will turn off. We can compare it with fire, if we take away oxygen, heat or fuel, it will turn off.

A ballast will look something like this:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/produc ... 00033a.htm


3.- Positioner Sensor
It’s name says it all. It is just a positioner sensor which in case of it not detecting something is installed correctly, as a security matter it will prevent the TV from turning on. This sensor can be located at the end of the housing’s tunnel and also in the lamp access door. Make sure the housing is installed correctly inside the TV and that the access door to the lamp is properly closed. This sensor can also fail and we also have it on our inventory.

A positioner sensor will look something like this:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/Search ... =lamp+door

4.- Temperature Sensor
It’s a simple temperature sensor, a thermostat that when it reaches “X” temperature (obviously superior to the room temperature + an extra temperature of the lamp), the tv will turn off as a safety matter.
Like any other temperature sensor, it fails with time and you will need to replace it.
A temperature sensor will look something like this (next to lamp):
http://www.discount-merchant.com/Search ... ure+sensor

5.- Lamp Hour Meter
Some TVs have this function which basically measures how many hours the lamp has been used. Some of these TVs are programmed to send an alert every “X” amount of hours. To repair this, it is necessary to reset the meter. The instructions are different for every different TV brand:
Samsung
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/2007/02/15/re ... r-counter/
Mitsubishi
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1348
Sony
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=871

Some TV’s detect a new lamp (with a ON-OFF-ON cycle on the positioner sensor) and reset’s automatically the hour meter. If yours didnt detect it, just take out the lamp and push it back in again.

6.- Color Wheel
We will only find it in the DLP TVs (as a reference all projection Systems that have an elliptic lamp, “E22, E19.8, E23”).
This part is electro mechanic, since it’s always moving thanks to electric pulses. Every mechanic things wears out because of its use, and this is one of them.
The defect symptoms are: Humming or buzzing sounds, the sound is always more mechanic than electric. There will also be cases where you will feel a vibration in the TV when it’s being turned on. The color wheel has an optic sensor, that informs the DMD board the spinning speed, if the DMD detects that it’s spinning under the 15,000 revolutions per minute, it will send an alert (Lamp Light indicator) and the TV will turn off, it will not turn on.

A color wheel will look something like this:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsun ... 01579a.htm


7.- DMD
We will only find this part in DLP TVs (as a reference all the ones that have an Elliptic lamp “E22, E19.8, E23”).
This part is also electro mechanic, because each pixel is a Micro-mirror that reflects Light into the screen and away from it (to a light absorber) this movement is done thanks to electric pulses that are in the Micro-mirror. This board is the one in charge of creating an image, therefore any problem with an image distortion we refer ourselves to DMD issue. Commonly when the DMD fails is because of overheating, the common symptoms will be:
Star dots on the screen, a whole column/ line or columns, pixilation lines where there is no image, a whole column or many columns/ pixel lines where there is always illumination.
Basically this happens because the Micro-mirrors stopped moving to the ON or OFF position.

You can read a little bit more of how the DMD board works over here:
http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/dlp1.htm

A DMD board will look something like this:
http://photos.discount-merchant.com/pho ... id=1070535

:geek:
:idea: With the symptoms and history you just gave us we can say that.....
Ballast, Color Wheel, Positioner Sensor, Temp Sensor and Lamp Hour Meter are not the issues.

The only ones that remain are the lamp and the DMD..... But you might also be affected by weak voltage provided by the power supply.
If you havent change the lamp yet, we really recommend you to do so. You can get one from our sponsors @:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsun ... 1&CartID=0

If you already change the lamp recently (no more than 3 months) we will really recommend you to get a technician to narrow this more for you. You can get reliable techs certified by NESDA @:
www.tvrepairpros.com
Just enter your state and zip code and it will give you all the available NESDA teh's around your area.

Thanks for choosing us ;) :D

[warzonepr]

Thanks for the reply

really apreciated

The lamp is brand new, since that was the first thing that came to my mind.

I received today a color wheel replacement since the first one that oi got had shimering sound for a suposed new wheel, so i installed, but this time i just did the connections and left it outside the wheel with housing to see if the color wheel was indeed turning.

The wheel turns, but after the lamp turns on, this shimmering starts again and starts dimming the lamp at the same time as the shimerring starts. I dont know the correct wording, but as the shimerring gets lowder the lamp weakens. its like there in sync with each other. so i hit on the side of the wheel and the shimmering stops and the lamp comes back to its full power and stays on until i shutoff the TV.

So for what i have seen so far, it seems that all this time, it has been the color wheel not been able to get to get the right rpm. So my question is the following

is the wheel is bad?

Or the DMD is not sending the correct voltage to the colorwheel making this send a error to the DMD?

my only thing that has me like clueless is why the wheel is shimmering only right after the lamp turns on. Because it works fine after it stops doing that shimerring at the same time as the lamp stops dimmering


Thanks in advance for the responce

[warzonepr]

I wanted to add that the sound coming from the color wheel is more of a squeek sound. Not shimerring.

Its starts squeeking like when the wind shild whippers of a car starts squeeking when its on with out water on the glass.

Hope this helps determin if the color wheel is the problem or the dmd

Also is there a way to find out if the dmd is sending the correct voltage to the colorwheel

Thanks

[warzonepr]

Hi again

Here is a video so that you can see and here the sound that the color wheel is making. Hope this helps in figuring out if the wheel is bad or this is normal when another item is malfunctioning and giving error signal to the DMD.



i thinking, that its not reaching the rpm needed since this squeking that is doing is like trying or forcing to get to the right speed

Thanks

[BYO]

:mrgreen: Hi,

The DMD sends alternate pulses to the color wheel to make it spin..... I dont think the DMD is bad, since you have that sound there is a good chance that you still received a bad wheel or it got damaged during shipping. This happens a lo of times since Wheel is a very delicate part and Shipping carriers dont really handle boxes with care.
Lamp and Color Wheel are not sync but if RPM's are low DMD might detect that and maytbe starts sending instructions to turn OFF ballast. BUT than wheel gets to proper speed and that instruction is voided.

I will really recommend you to get a exchange :? for that wheel since most probably was damaged during shipping or it was like that from the beginning.


Have a good one :geek: ......!!

[warzonepr]

Hi there again


Thanks for being so helpfull

I tought so.

It just made sence, but this colorwheel was exchnged already for the same problem, so it had to be that i was very unlucky and got a second bad item or maybe there something else wrong.

Again, thank you. Hopefully this will be of great help to another person that has a similar situation. I will update you all on the outcome after i get the replacement for the second time (if i get one).

[BYO]

After further research I found that the pulses sent by the DMD should be 3.5V switching ON/OFF alternately..... you can check this on the ribbon cable that comes from the DMD there should be at least 3-4 tips.....

[warzonepr]

Hi

does this can be mesured with a multimeter or i need another instrument?

[BYO]

you can do it with a multimeter :mrgreen: