Looking for some assistance on my Sammy 5065W, which gave up the ghost (color wheel is trying to spin-up, but no picture or sound) on me recently. Have had this DLP since 2005 and other than an early issue with the color wheel, this unit's been solid and still love the picture.
Was reading some of the threads on here and got on one about the ballast "clicking" as an indication of being possibly bad. I thought this is what my issue was so ordered a replacement and put in today, but still have the same problem with getting no picture or sound and still the same "clicking".
I'm not sure what the component is on the ballast circuit board, but this component is what is doing the clicking that I was hearing, and it flashes on/off when the TV is trying to power up. I thought this is what the problem was as it did it on the original ballast, but it does the same thing on the new one. I did a video on what I'm seeing, which is at this link. Is this normal?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnWWP1GiIKE
I also still have the original lamp that was in the unit when I bought it. The filament in it looks to still be solid, so decided to go with a ballast first, so have not installed a new lamp yet.
If anyone would be kind enough to point me in the right direction on where to go next, would greatly appreciate.
Thanks...
HLN5065W ballast replaced - still no pic/sound
Moderator: Angel
Forum rules
Re: HLN5065W ballast replaced - still no pic/sound
:P
Hi,
I will definitely try the lamp first. This TV lamps do have a lifespan of about 6000-8000 hrs, and by 5 yrs is most likely that we already reach that limit.
Ballast also clicks when is not able to turn ON the lamp. 95% of the time replacing the lamp will make the trick!!
Hi,
I will definitely try the lamp first. This TV lamps do have a lifespan of about 6000-8000 hrs, and by 5 yrs is most likely that we already reach that limit.
Ballast also clicks when is not able to turn ON the lamp. 95% of the time replacing the lamp will make the trick!!
Re: HLN5065W ballast replaced - still no pic/sound
BYO - thanks for the followup. Appreciate your help.
Did a bit more reading on here, and read some info on testing for input voltage into the ballast board, the 380vdc. Gave that a gander and I'm reading 0v DC when I measure between the 2 pins on that connector that connects onto the ballast board. Checked my meter and was set for DC voltage testing.
I'm sure I'll need to replace the bulb (at some point), but it's around $100 and I hate to get walking down that money pit road. Can a bad bulb cause you not to read your 380v on the ballast board? Or am I looking at a power supply unit first? I'm not sure exactly what requires what to be working for this thing to get fired up and working. TIA
Did a bit more reading on here, and read some info on testing for input voltage into the ballast board, the 380vdc. Gave that a gander and I'm reading 0v DC when I measure between the 2 pins on that connector that connects onto the ballast board. Checked my meter and was set for DC voltage testing.
I'm sure I'll need to replace the bulb (at some point), but it's around $100 and I hate to get walking down that money pit road. Can a bad bulb cause you not to read your 380v on the ballast board? Or am I looking at a power supply unit first? I'm not sure exactly what requires what to be working for this thing to get fired up and working. TIA
Re: HLN5065W ballast replaced - still no pic/sound
:mrgreen:
Hi,
In order to read those 380v from power supply to ballast, you need to trick the TV by making sure to hold down the lamp door position switch to the ON position, and if there is another position switch for the back cover do the same on there.
If you dont do this, there is a good chance you will get a 0v reading from power supply to ballast.
8-) Hope this info works for you....!!
Hi,
In order to read those 380v from power supply to ballast, you need to trick the TV by making sure to hold down the lamp door position switch to the ON position, and if there is another position switch for the back cover do the same on there.
If you dont do this, there is a good chance you will get a 0v reading from power supply to ballast.
8-) Hope this info works for you....!!
Re: HLN5065W ballast replaced - still no pic/sound
Thanks again BYO for responding.
Now I do have the position switch for the back cover taped down, else the TV won't power up if that switch is not made. So I'm aware of that one.
But I don't see a "lamp door position switch", at least not one I can readily find. I do have the bulb housing enclosure unit slid into place and secured down.
Can you push me in the right direction on where to find this switch?? :roll: ...thanks
Now I do have the position switch for the back cover taped down, else the TV won't power up if that switch is not made. So I'm aware of that one.
But I don't see a "lamp door position switch", at least not one I can readily find. I do have the bulb housing enclosure unit slid into place and secured down.
Can you push me in the right direction on where to find this switch?? :roll: ...thanks
Re: HLN5065W ballast replaced - still no pic/sound
just wanted to followup on this thread and add some final info.
Finally got back to working on this over the last few weeks, and ultimately wound up ordering a replacement lamp assy...which turned out to be the fix! I had noticed that the sppt people on here always suggesting replacing the lamp as the first course of action. Well I thought I knew better...but didn't lol.
The lamp brightness looked acceptable to me right before the problem started. My thoughts were I didn't want to let loose of $100 on a new lamp, as the old one looked fine before failing, and if it turned out not to be the fix...yea, I had a new lamp, but I was also out $100. And I will just say, that even with a new Philips lamp, the picture looks only marginally brighter with the new lamp vs. the old. And I haven't checked the hours on the failed bulb - which was the original bulb - which I'm sure has at least 6-8k hours on it. (I'll update once I get in and check/reset)
I thought it was a bad ballast as I thought it was "clicking"..but the clicking was the lamp igniter trying to fire. New ballast didn't fix it. What had me was even though I had no picture, I had sound....initially. Then thru the course of working on, the sound stopped working. Once I lost sound, I got off on a power supply issue, or thinking something else was wrong. Still thinking with the brightness of the bulb before failure..it wasn't a bulb issue. Then I thought I wasn't getting 360v out of the PS...but then I started getting a ~380vdc reading..all of a sudden. I've used a meter for years, know the difference between AC vs. DC..but I must have pulled out the dunce hat when I was checking/thinking I had a PS issue.
So long story longer...follow these guys advice, bite the bullet and try the bulb first. Especially if you have some hours on it. With new bulb in..I now have a picture, and now have sound. What sound has to do with a bad bulb..I'll never know - thanks to BYO for lending assistance early on.
Finally got back to working on this over the last few weeks, and ultimately wound up ordering a replacement lamp assy...which turned out to be the fix! I had noticed that the sppt people on here always suggesting replacing the lamp as the first course of action. Well I thought I knew better...but didn't lol.
The lamp brightness looked acceptable to me right before the problem started. My thoughts were I didn't want to let loose of $100 on a new lamp, as the old one looked fine before failing, and if it turned out not to be the fix...yea, I had a new lamp, but I was also out $100. And I will just say, that even with a new Philips lamp, the picture looks only marginally brighter with the new lamp vs. the old. And I haven't checked the hours on the failed bulb - which was the original bulb - which I'm sure has at least 6-8k hours on it. (I'll update once I get in and check/reset)
I thought it was a bad ballast as I thought it was "clicking"..but the clicking was the lamp igniter trying to fire. New ballast didn't fix it. What had me was even though I had no picture, I had sound....initially. Then thru the course of working on, the sound stopped working. Once I lost sound, I got off on a power supply issue, or thinking something else was wrong. Still thinking with the brightness of the bulb before failure..it wasn't a bulb issue. Then I thought I wasn't getting 360v out of the PS...but then I started getting a ~380vdc reading..all of a sudden. I've used a meter for years, know the difference between AC vs. DC..but I must have pulled out the dunce hat when I was checking/thinking I had a PS issue.
So long story longer...follow these guys advice, bite the bullet and try the bulb first. Especially if you have some hours on it. With new bulb in..I now have a picture, and now have sound. What sound has to do with a bad bulb..I'll never know - thanks to BYO for lending assistance early on.