WD-60638 flashes makes high/low humming sound then turns off

[CGRemakes]

I recently had a bulb burn out (when I took it out, there was glass inside the bulb. I ordered this one off Amazon from what appeared to be a reliable, reputable supplier (and the bulb was fulfilled by Amazon). The price was certainly not as cheap as the knock-offs, so I hope I didn't pay more for less. This is the link where I got it: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C74P43U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It looks great when first powered up, but after about 15 minutes, the picture starts fading in and out and has what are almost like hotspots or something, and what sounds like a fan starts humming with varying pitches, and then the TV turns off. The bulb does have "Philips" stamped on it, but I understand that does not ensure it truly is a good brand. What is the best way to diagnose the problem, short of buying pieces at a time and hope one of them fixes it?

[grayfox]

Hello!



So I checked out the Amazon seller and they check out as OEM Philips distributors! You never know there's many shady vendors on eBay and Amazon!



Its been in my experience that these faults you describe are almost always a bad colorwheel, once it warms up it seems to malfunction, this is normal since it is a consumable part and they sell it online for easy replacement. There is nothing to cut or solder its pretty much a bunch of screws and connectors.



What I think is happening (you have a good lamp) but once the colorwheel heats up it begins to malfunction maybe its damaged, or has a defective air bearing, you begin to see color distortion and the wheel spinning looses balance or rpms and begins to "hum"...



I hope this helps!

[CGRemakes]

I appreciate you looking into that. Yeah, I tried to stay away from ones that appeared to be more shady. Where's a good place to get color wheels? Is it pretty common for the bulb and colorwheel to go out at exactly the same time? Or could the bad lamp have caused the colorwheel to go bad?

[grayfox]

Hi,



I normally look around Google shopping and order the cheapest, theres not that many counterfeit colorwheels or ballasts, unless they are used/refurbished, I trust them..



it is quite common for a bad colorwheel to prevent the ballast for firing up the lamp, or for a bad ballast to ignite a new lamp.



It would be the first time in over 10 yrs that i see a lamp damage something, the lamp can be damaged but almost nothing can come from it outside of regular "wear and tear"

[CGRemakes]

I've seen a few model #'s that claim to work on this TV: 938P179010 and 938P215010. Do they both work? They're not as readily available as I anticipated. Guess DLP televisions are kind of a thing of the past?

[grayfox]

Well Mitsubishi ran the last production line with huge 3D / 72"+ screens about 2 yrs ago and they have been going strong since about the early 2000's so yes its safe to say so..



Luckily compatibility on Mitsubishi DLPs is good, but I would cross reference with the original from your TV before purchasing.. and that means removal!



Let me know if I can be of any help!

[CGRemakes]

Well, got the 938P215010 wheel, and that fixed the problem! Thank you so much for your help, hopefully this TV will serve us a few more years until the newest technology becomes a bit more mature and affordable.

[grayfox]

YAY!



GREAT NEWS, I hope this helps anyone with this TV and similar issues as well.



Good luck and hopefully you wont need to post later unless it is just to say hi or help someone in need!