Samsung DLP Help!

[MissingTV]

Great board! I have an HLP5674WX that started to intermittently make a funny sound (think lawn mower lite). It died yesterday. Would not turn on.

My symptoms:
1. Clicks on in center of TV (ballast)
2a. Cooling fan starts
2b. Further click at left rear of TV
3. I finally got the light to turn on with the cover off
4. The grinder/whirring noise started.

My diagnosis - I need a new color wheel/color wheel assembly.

Thanks to everyone for posting your problems and answers as this helped me solve mine.

[mstennes]

I'm at a total loss here, I bought a HL67A510J1F, it has worked great for just about 14 months and wham! Nothing, the lights started blinking (all 3 in front) so I found discount merchant, ordered a new bulb and housing, it wouldnt even go in :o , then I noticed the male ends on the housing to the buld wires were 180* off :o , so I flipped them and still nothing :cry: , I now carefully take the wires off and flip the connector again with the wires the same as the old bulb I pulled out, still nothing :x . Now I think I fried the bulb, I start Googling and find this site. Now I think maybe my ballast or board are out, do I just start ordering parts and hit and miss until the TV goes out the window? Heres my other symptoms, Plug TV in, hit power button, green light flashes and I hear some sort of audio sound, than it sits there I hear a click, (thinking its gonna work this time 8-) ) than it clicks again and the 3 lights in front start flashing :evil: . What next? Another bulb, ballast, board, fan or color wheel? If it is the ballast what part number is it, heck whats the part numbers for all the failure prone problems :? ?
Thanks
Thanks for this site, thanks for your help!

[Angel]

[mstennes]

[Angel]

If you want to be sure the problem is your color wheel you need to check it physically, I recommend you to check the guide I posted. If your color wheel is fine then the ballast could be the problem.

[mstennes]

[mstennes]

Its out and I'm looking at it, it looks fine to me :? , it even turns easily when I tried to turn it to see if it was jamed up.

[Angel]

[mstennes]

Since I live in the rural part of Washington State, what ballast do/would I need, from all the posts here on Samsung, I might as well order one of those also.
Is this the correct ballast?

[Angel]

[mstennes]

Thanks, I was just editing my post with a ballast when you were posting but I see mine is wrong :shock:
Please tell me this is the right bulb Samsung BP96-01600A Lamp - Replacement Lamp Code BP9601600A(O150W), also am I better off getting the complete unit (bulb and housing) or just the bulb?

[Angel]

How do you get to that ballast? Maybe you're not wrong, as I said, There could be more than one part number for your model.

[mstennes]

Well the bulb number on my above post is what is in the owners manual, the allast I found on discount merchants web site. I hate to trouble you ut can you give me the correct ballast and bulb numbers for discount merchants web site so I can get these ordered up?
Thanks,
Mike

ETA, I cant find or see any part numbers on the ballast

[Angel]

[mstennes]

Ok I will order the new lamp, should I just get the lamp and use the original housing? If the ballast is bad would that work for my set? The one in my above post, It says for a 130 watt bulb?

[Angel]

You can order any ballast, you just need to make sure both have the same specs. If you put a ballast of 120W and have a bulb of 150W it wouldn't work.

[bigbug]

Simple questions.
Samsung HL-P5063W
After replacing a lamp does one need to reset the lamp hour counter before the lamp will turn on again?
Also, how can one see the service menu if the screen is not lighting up?
I am aware of the MUTE or MENU -1-8-2 -POWER sequence.
If required is there a way to reset the hour meter with no picture?
Is it possible to hook up another tv to the Samsung to see the service menu?

Any information would be appreciated.
Thank you to all the people trying to help people.

[Joekey311]

Hey there, great site and thanks for all the free info everyone dishes out.

Ive been trying my best to figure out how to fix my set manually, and would appreciate any info on where i should start.

I have a Samsung HLR5678WX thats been having issues for the last few months. When it turns on the green lamp LED flashes and it takes about 15 seconds to power up. The screen will show up for between 10 to 15 seconds (I have the Source set to DVD with the DVD player turned on), then the screen goes black for about the same amount of time, 10 to 15 seconds. It repeats this over and over, for around 10 minutes or so before shutting itself off. I cant manually turn it off, unless i unplug the power cord.

I try using any of the menu buttons on the TV, and nothing happens. When i use the remote (i push any of the buttons on the remote) the TV doesnt respond, and the green "TIMER" LED will flash anytime i use a button on the remote. The buttons on the side of the TV itself dont work either.

The lamp is lit up the whole time, and i dont hear any odd noises. Audio works fine, i have it set up through my audio receiver.

Ive tried to access the Service Mode (Mute, 1, 8, 2 then Power) and the menu pops up, but after the screen goes dark and then comes back on, the menu is gone. The window of 10 to 15 seconds i have when first turning on the TV isnt long enough for me to try any of the options in the menu.

Any info or thoughts is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks in advance :)

[rsah]

I have a HLN507WX/XAA which has operated flawlessly until it turned 6 yo. Since then, it starts fine, but after a few minutes the picture freezes in black and white, but the audio continues. It can only be powered down by unplugging it. The lamp seems fine, the colorwheel is spinning without noise, the 3 fans are all working.

HLN507WX picture frozen in black & white.

HLN507WX_negativeimage.JPG (85.2 KiB) Viewed 3677342 times

After reading numerous threads with similar issues, the main culprit most often noted is a bad DMD. If this is the case, the question is what replacement to buy? Some of the parts sites show pictures, while others do not, so it's hard to see what the difference is between various options.

For example, D-M lists a "AA41-00694E Projection - DMD Board FOR SAMSUNG N/A - HLN437W/HLN507W", which is currently not in stock and does not have a picture of what you are getting (bare board?), whereas a customer service rep told me it was a "BP41-00119B Projection - DMD Board FOR SAMSUNG N/A -", which they have in stock with pictures; but, it isn't clear if this is the correct board.

The Samsung parts site doesn't list either of these boards, but has a "BP96-00249A ASSY COVER P-DMD" with no picture. This is considerable more expensive ($537 versus $180 for the D-M board), but does include a $150 credit for return of the old core. But what comes with the assembly cover P-DMD versus just the DMD board?

Another solution sometimes suggested is to replace the entire light engine (BP96-00305A, Projection - Light Engine (No Lamp & NO Colorwheel) $240), but D-M only lists model HLN5067W (not HLN507W). The Samsung parts site does indicate this is the correct part number for an HLN507W with a price of $950 (-$350 credit for core return), but with no picture.

1) Is this a problem with my DMD board?
2) If so, which of these options would satisfy replacing a bad DMD and/or would be the best way to go?

I stuck trying to decide whether to go forward with this on my own, call a service tech, or buy a new set and would appreciate some guidance.

[silvia]

I've replaced the lamp and the color wheel successfully on my HLP5063WX/XAA. The color is brigher (it had been dimming itself after about 2 minutes) and the insanity inducing whirring sound is gone! I can acutally hear a lower version of it when I spin the old color wheel by hand. Now to my question: on a black screen or whenever a dark color is in the middle (kinda middle-ish right when looking at the TV), there are two ovalish grey shaddows that overlap. Could this be a smudge or a dislodged piece of dust? AND how do I fix it? The TV was manufactured in Dec. 2004 and bought in Jan 2005.

Thanks for any help,

Silvia

[EWgearhead]

I have a Samsung DLP model HLP 4667W, lamp code BP96-00826A(P). It's about 3 years old.
It fires up fine, picture good and sound on, but after a variable time ~ 2-5 minutes, the picture starts to degrade, with fine 'ghosts' appearing both horizontal and vertical, and a general 'fuzzing' of the picture, but the picture still 'moves'. All of the controls cease to operate; the remote has no effect including channel changing, shutdown, source selection, etc., and the buttons on the main body also unresponsive. Sound is lost. The picture gradually but progressively gets worse, transitioning into horizontal streaks, then the screen goes black. At least one fan remains operating, and the lamp remains lit (from light emanating through the light filter). Sometimes, the units shuts itself down, sometimes it remains nominally 'on,' and requires unplugging to reset. (I have heeded your cautions about 'uncommanded shut-down,' and only shut off the power intermittently, to allow the fans to come back on and complete proper cool-down. Sometimes, lights on the front switch end in all three flashing. While I can hear the color wheel spinning down, it is pretty quiet. I have tried to enter the Service Mode, and done a 'User reset,' but I don't know if that is a 'factory reset.' Since the TV is only responding to commands for a couple of minutes, it really limits how much I can play with the menus, but I did reset to the point, for instance, that it forgot all of our channel presets. I did suspect overheating, because it can generally reset and go again (though the picture OK intervals have been shortening), so I took off the light filter to look in the back and locate fans for inspection. I found the one more exposed (by the computing side), and it works fine, but I haven't found or verified the one associated with the lamp. There is some air movement through the light filter with the unit on, but not very strong at all.
I guess, at this point, I am wondering if there are any other diagnostics I would be wise to run, or if I should just look to replace either the DMD board or the Digital Board? #8).
I ended up looking at the home fix for the inadequate flow soldering (by pressing down on the DLP chip). I tried that, and though it didn't fix the problem, it seemed to improve it somewhat, so I decided to take the DMD board out and send it to JD Electronics (as suggested elsewhere in this forum) through their Ebay offer. I had a slightly different board than most other people (compared to the one they had pictured, the board was the same, but the arrangement on it was a little different), so I asked them first if they thought they could solder my board. They said yes, I bought the service, packed up my board and shipped it off. It came back yesterday (sorry, I don't remember exactly how long it took to go there and back, but I bought the Ebay service on 1/29, and yesterday was 2/16, so two weeks including my time to pack and ship, which might have been a week - so pretty quick, anyway). I slapped it in, and everything works dandy, fixed 'er right up! Thanks to all, great forum, _huge_ relief, and nice to have my big screen back.

[TxAggie]

[rsah]

No final solution so far, but here's the current status (such as it is) of my attempts to get this fixed.

After locating the DMD board in my HLN507W, I decided it looked to complicated for me to try and replace (especially since I wasn't 100% certain this was the problem). So, I took my set into a "Samsung authorized service center" and told them the symptoms and asked if it was a bad DMD board. They said for $50 they would check out the set (telling me it could be any number of bad components), figure out what part needed to be replaced, and then tell give me an estimate for the repair. I had not heard back from them in two weeks, so I stopped by and they said the tech told them it had a bad "digital board" and they had ordered one to see if that resolved the problem. After another 4 weeks, I stopped by again and they said the part was on back order from Samsung with no known fulfillment date. So, I checked the Samsung parts website for the "digital board" (BP94-00385A) and indeed it is listed as "Item is nation-wide back order. We may have it within 4 weeks.". Since it had already been 6 weeks I called Samsung parts (J&J Parts) and they gave me two alternative "upgrade" part numbers (AA94-11908A and BP94-00607A), but at the same time said these were also on back order.

Great! Now what? I decided to call Samsung to see if they could tell me if these parts were ever going to become available. Well, if you have ever called the Samsung "Customer Support" number you can guess how I fared. The "troubleshooter" from Samsung said there was nothing she could do, her job was just to troubleshoot customer problems (which when I had called weeks earlier amounted to them telling me to take the set into a Samsung authorized service center for diagnosis and repair --- which I did!). After prowling the internet, I found some people recommended calling the "Executive Customer Relations" department, which is supposed to be a couple of tiers higher than the "Customer Support". I explained the problem and told them the name of the service center I had taken my TV to. I was told that they would look into the parts issue and could determine when the parts would be available and that I would hear back from them shortly. True to their word, I received a call the following day telling me that: 1) the digital board (as well as the alternative boards) were no longer available, 2) my TV set has depreciated to zero value (calculated at 20% depreciation per year) so they could not offer me any type of exchange, and 3) "Sorry". So much for standing behind your products!

End of story? Not quite. The day before I heard back from Samsung, I talked again with the service center. They now said that the problem was really a bad DMD board (now where had I heard that before?) and not a digital board (they said Samsung had given them a wrong number before?!?!?), and that they had just ordered a replacement board the day before. I asked what the part number was they had ordered (BP96-00249) and if it was actually in stock from Samsung parts. They assured me it was and that they should receive it this next Monday/Tuesday, but with the Thanksgiving holiday were not sure if it would take longer.

So, I am essentially at the same place I was 2 months ago. It still sounds like the problem is a bad DMD board. Unfortunately, I do not have a high level of confidence that the repair center is any more competent in replacing the DMD board than I would have been, nor that this is actually the problem. But, perhaps I will know more this next week and will post an update then.

[TxAggie]

[ovadoggvo]

rsah,
I appologize for my absense in the last month or two. I too beleive that the problem with yoru TV is the DMD board. The inverted image is a common issue on the HLN series. I would double check to make sure the on-screen menu is also inverted, if yes, in most cases the DMD chip on the DMD board is failing and the DMD board should be replaced. I normally recommend Discount-Merchant.com for parts like this. I will tell you why:

http://www.discount-merchant.com/Search ... 07w+engine

That right there says it all.. $329 for a FULL BLOWN light engine with the color wheel.. What does a light engine like this include?

Here are a few key parts:
Color Wheel
DMD Board
Light Tunnel

Partstore sells this light engine for $899
Samsung sells this part for $930

Just the DMD board alone that this light engine comes with this costs $600+ from samsung and they are currently out of stock!

Let us know what happens..

[ovadoggvo]

bigbug,
Here are some answers for you:

"After replacing a lamp does one need to reset the lamp hour counter before the lamp will turn on again?"
No. The lamp counter is not a "trigger" on the Samsung TV's. This counter applies to Panasonic and Mitsubishi ONLY.

"Also, how can one see the service menu if the screen is not lighting up?"
There is no way to get into the service menu without the TV actually turning on.

"Is it possible to hook up another tv to the Samsung to see the service menu?"
There is no way to connect an exterior display to your TV if it doesn't turn on either.

Few simple questions:

Did you put your lamp cover door back on when you installed your lamp? There is a sensor there that prevents you from turning on your TV when your lamp cover door is open.

Does your TV make a whirling noise or was it before your TV stopped working? If yes, your color wheel is bad.

Do you hear a clicking noise when you hit the power button? One click means your ballast is most likely good. 3-4 repetative clicks means your ballast is most likely bad. ***No click means your DMD board is not sending a signal to your ballast to turn on or your ballast is bad. To test which one is your problem, try to FORCE-ON your ballast. Look here: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6&p=275&hilit=ballast+force+on#p275

Let us know if you need anything else!

[xconverge]

Hello there!

I have a HLN617WX/XAA and the lamp won't fire. It does the 3 tries to start up and then the 3 blinking lights. I tried replacing the ballast with no luck fixing the issue and have tested that it is getting the proper signalling from the colorwheel but NOT the proper voltage from the power supply. The connector to the ballast is reading 520v when it should be ~380v. Any suggestions on what to replace on the power board itself or if I should just find an entire replacement?

I am assuming it is the board on the right here and that the left one is fine, is this safe to assume?



Do you think I am on the right track here? (Hopefully it hasn't fried my original AND replacement ballast :( )

Thank you for your help :D

[ovadoggvo]

xconverge,
Look at this post:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=19

Read the bootup sequence and tell me if this helps you diagnose your TV a little bit more. Once you have absorbed all the info, let me know if your diagnosis on your set has changed and we will go from there.

[xconverge]

Thanks for the reply! I have studied the boot sequence thoroughly and tested many of the components.

I am getting ~520v to the ballast from the power supply and was wondering if this would cause an issue/ fry the ballast.

I have tested the colorwheel with an oscilloscope, tested the 5 pin connector to the ballast and received the appropriate 5v signal when the color wheel is up to speed, but then there is no click or anything from the ballast. I have replaced both the bulb and ballast to no avail leaving me with the assumption that it is the power supply to the ballast.

I am not sure how it is getting to be 520v but from what I have read it should be about 380v. No components look burnt or bad, and I can't find any poor solder joints.

As far as a replacement board, the numbers on the board I pulled out are as follows

Current Board:

AA41-00696D
BP94-00099A
Chassis:L62A
Model:HLM507W

Could I replace it with one of the following?

The pictures seem to be identical along with 3 of the 4 numbers listed above.

I will hook the power supply up to the ballast tomorrow and try and jump start it with the method I have seen you post before and see if anything happens, I am assuming the high voltage from the PSU has fried the ballast though.

Thanks!

[ovadoggvo]

xconverge,
580V seems a bit high to me. Try forcing on your ballast as explained in this post here:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6&p=275&hilit=force+on#p275

The power supply you have posted a link to will work as a replacement for your power supply.

Let us know how it goes.

[xconverge]

Just updating, new power supply came in, that did the trick for the lighting system.

Starts up great, I hear the cable box sound, once the screen is bright the sound cuts out and it says it cant get a signal from the component input. The vga input works fine though. Any suggestions? I would think that I forgot to plug something in although it seems to work for a few seconds and then cut out.

[ovadoggvo]

Guys,
Sorry I've been out of the loop for a little while. Been busy doing other things rather than helping people fix their TV's! But I just heard of a NEWS FLASH for JUN15 2010.

There is a class action lawsuit that passed for those people on this forum that have an HL-P series, HL-R series, HL-S series and select HL-T series SAMSUNG TV! This class action suit entitles people with the "SHADOW" affect to get free repairs by Samsung corporation.

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/newsa ... ertMain.do

I'm sorry I don't get the time to answer every single one of your questions but I am all over this forum and a few others helping people with the same exact issues as yours. Please look around and I'm sure I've posted an answer to your questions somewhere here.

[seandevlin]

ovadoggvo...
You seem to be very knowledgable on the samsung dlp tv's... Wondering if you might be able to help me out. I recently replaced the color wheel on my samsung dlp tv, after putting the set back together, I have lost the sound... I've tried different inputs and a reset; but the sound still hasn't come back... I'm sure there must be a connection issue. Any thoughts?
There was one black cable wire that was loose or not connected; but couldn't find where it needed to be; if this was even it.
Thanks,
Sean

[ovadoggvo]

Drew,
The problem is the DIGITAL BOARD.. All of your digital inputs are defective. The VGA input is actually an ANALOG signal that goes straight to the DMD board without Decoding by the DNIe chip. Your component, svideo, rca, and hdmi will all pass through the digital boards upconversion DNIe chip to get processed.

Let us know how it goes.

[ovadoggvo]

Denbo,
Great! I'm glad you got the thing going with a digital board!

I would prefer to keep Samsung posts in this thread so I'm not all over the place. If anyone else still needs help, please post here.

[bmar]

Hi! I'm really hoping someone can help me!

Have a Samsung HL-T5676SX/XAA.

Powers up.
No error codes.
Fans working on powerup.
Colorwheel working (I think - no odd sounds, etc.)
Ballast seems fine because...
Lamp works and looks to be at full intensity.

And yet I have no picture at all and no sound. Also, after a few minutes, the lamp turns off and I think the set goes to standby.

What's up? Any thoughts? Is it my DMD board?

Help!

Thanks!

[tapdawg25]

I posted this in another thread, but I'm adding here, reading that you'd like to keep your samsung posts in one place.

I replaced my digital board on HLR5067W. The original part was discontinued, so I purchased the sub part, which was pulled from a brand new TV of the same model. It's missing the coax connection, which seems consistent with what is available on DM's site (I have no idea why the tuner setup would be different here).

Anyway, once I replaced the board, I went to the service menu to do a user reset and align the light engine, using the 'engine selct' option in the DDP1011 menu portion. I don't have that option in my menu at all. I also don't have the lamp power specs, typically displayed below that, in my menu. Whats happening is my inputs are not being recognized. I had the green/plaid line issue, so instead of reflow, I chose to replace the board. I can't check to see if that fixed it, if I can't verify an input signal. Hmmm... any help would be great.

The part # I bought for the digital video board is: AA41-01098B

Thanks!!

[tekenaar]

[coola]

Hello guys.

I need help with fixing my HLS7178W. It just keeps shutting down by it self in about 15 minutes of watching time.

What I did so far:
1. Changed the new lamp. I bought a new philips lamp that came with housing.
2. Changed the ballast as well.
3. Reset the registered lamp hours from the service menu.

But it just keeps shutting down in about 15 minutes. What puzzled me when it was on, the picture and sound were perfect. Then usually in about 15 minutes or later the screen shut off, while I could still hear the audio. Then everything shut off follows by 4 blinking leds. I did not hear any strange noise etc, so I'm not sure the color wheel is the problem. Could someone please help me out? What should I do next? I need my tv :(

Thanks in advanced!

[120inna55]

[tekenaar]

Already posted about my longtime ownership of very early production HL507W. So, with "-specific" replacement parts now already being very scarce, can someone tell me what the 'functional spec' differences are between my HL507W and the next version HL507W DLP sets? For instance, my HLM is a 1080i, is the HLN perhaps a 1080p? :?:

[120inna55]

[coola]

[coola]

[krimi]

its the temp sensor above your lamp housing..i have new thread explaining. easy fix.

[southernlightning]

I have a Samsung 6187S LED DLP. It started to act strange a while back. It would go black like it was the red led problem. I ordered and replaced the LED and still had the same problem. Once it went to black it would not come up unless I pulled all the inputs and restarted it. After some troubleshooting I figured out that if I leave it on and don't shut it off it will stay working most of the time. The problem seems to be it doesn't like HD signals or bright white transitions. If it goes to black on an HD signal I have to shut it off and bring it up on an SD channel and leave it there for a while before I can go to an HD channel. If it is warmed up it seems to work fine although it has real problems with high action scenes and will dump to the black screen of death and I have to go through the same process to get it back up again. I was thinking input board but there is a digital and analog board and I can get both type inputs to work. What board does it have in common that would cause this? Is the next step the DMD? I have the manual and am going through the sets and that is what is says to replace. I guess I am looking for the smart guys input here. Once it is working it works great! The component is what I am using now but it shows the same issues with HDMI. The menu will come up right away but if it dumps to the black screen nothing works. No video, no menu but the audio works. Every once in a awhile it will come up with the green, red and blue crosshatch type pattern or it will just flash red then green then blue crap on a black background....
Thanks for the help guys!

[coola]

Thanks for everybody inputs. Sorry for the late reply, since it had been busy weeks. But we finally solved the problem. It was the color wheel problem. It never made any strange audible noise from outside, but I gambled, and it was the culprit. I guess on the high temperature, the wheel failed to spin at the required rpm. Also when I spin the old wheel there was a slight grinding noise.

To recap my HL-S7178W was kept shutting down in between 15 to 40 minutes of operation time, depending on the room temperature.

And the following what I did to solve the issue:

1. Changed the new lamp. I bought a new philips lamp that came with housing.
2. Changed the ballast as well.
3. Reset the registered lamp hours from the service menu.
4. Jammed the lamp door safety switch to downward position.
5. Tested the temperature sensor on the top of color wheel housing.
6. Changed the old color wheel, and it did it.

Thanks you for everyone inputs and helps. It is a great forum full of knowledge.

[wmako]

[Inthered]

Need some troubleshooting help with my HLP5085W DLP. I have my cable box HDMI out connected to the DVI input on the TV through an adapter. I also have my Blueray HDMI output connected to the HMDI input on the TV. I had been having issues (posted separately) with the TV on power-up but am limping along with that issue. The new problem I have now, is that I am getting a checkerboard display with no sound on the DVI input. When I plug the same source directly into the HDMI input the TV comes alive with no loss of video or sound. Does this sound like a digital board problem? Any help would be appreciated.

[markp]

Ok here goes. I have a Samsung HL-T50765X/XAA. It started about 2 months ago with 1 white dot no there's probably 300. I've contacted Samsung several times. My 1st try went good, they gave me a transaction # and said someone would contact me in less tha a week. Well a week passed and nothing so i called back. I called the 1800 number and was told i had contacted Samsung in Canada and i needed a new transaction # for repair in the US. Contacted the US and received another transaction #. The whole time everyone is telling me the repair would be covered. After another week I called the repair technician who had setup the appointment. ( I saved his cell # ). He tells me the workorder had been cancelled by Samsung. So I call them again and the new girl says the repair is not covered but they'll be glad to schedule the repair for $125.00 upfront.
The repair technician said it was probably the dmd chip. My question is, is this something that me with no electronics background fix ? The technician was very nice but said the repair would be around $500.. I f this repair could be done by myself can someone tell me were to order the parts...
Thanks for any help. I'd rather do it myself than fool with Samsung.. Hopefully I can do this repair since we have 3 more dlp's in the house....